Galicia insider tips: Discover Ferrol, A Coruña and the wild north coast

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After three wonderful days in Santiago de Compostela, the destination of the famous Camino de Santiago, I continue my journey through northern Spain via the motorway (tolls!. 

In just over an hour, I arrive in the harbour town of Ferrol (population approx. 64,000), where the Parador will be my home for three days. The charm of Ferrol with its naval buildings only becomes apparent at second glance. I quickly parked the hire car in front of the hotel (free of charge), had a bite to eat, and unpacked. I discuss my programme for the next few days with the friendly receptionist and set off for the Canido district. It's up and down in this neighbourhood, which is not precisely a captivatingly beautiful area. A few years ago, local artist Eduardo Hermida successfully halted the decay of the marina.

Discover Ferrol - street art and the Banksy mystery

Hermida brought art to the street by painting a so-called 'menina' (court maiden) on a façade, following the example of Velázquez's famous 17th-century painting. Today, there are 300 meninas along the façades in the Canido district, which is slowly developing into an artists' quarter and is resisting decay. The world-famous original can be found in the Prado in Madrid.

Years ago, there was a rumour that the world-famous, mysterious British street artist Banksy had immortalised himself with graffiti in Ferrol. However, a local art professor strongly doubted this and, as always, there has been no response from Banksy. Be that as it may, I took a look at the inconspicuous house in the Canido neighbourhood, on which a graffiti with the text 'Reserved for Banksy' can be seen. It's certainly a good marketing ploy - and maybe the mysterious artist will turn up in Ferrol again after all.

The most beautiful corners in Ferrol

It is not far from the Canido neighbourhood to the far more beautiful Barrio Magdalena with its magnificent façades and numerous restaurants. The cries of seagulls are a constant reminder that Ferrol lies on a so-called ria, a fjord-like bay. Otherwise, the small harbour with a few cafés and taverns is still worth a visit, and everything is within easy walking distance.

Spending the night in Ferrol

I spent three nights in the charming Parador with a view over the harbour, in my opinion, the best hotel in Ferrol. I loved the maritime charm of this traditional three-star hotel, which is modeled after a Galician manor house.

The wooden floor creaks under thick carpets, and nautical elements such as a historic ship's lantern attract attention everywhere. Breakfast is served in a marvelous restaurant with a panoramic view, and the buffet, as in the Paradores, leaves little to be desired.

The chunky room key is in keeping with the hotel's old-school charm. I enjoy the beautiful view and am delighted with the Maruxas in my room - delicious homemade organic biscuits with just three ingredients (flour, cream, cane sugar). On the last evening, I was even serenaded by marines in the old 'Capitana Maritima' across the way.

The attractive white building is the headquarters of a unit of the 'Infanteria de Marina Española' to protect people and facilities of the Armada.

Here is a short clip of the little concert:You can find a complete overview of accommodation in Ferrol on the Visit Ferrol website.

Feasting in Ferrol

The restaurant in the Parador de Ferrol, which specialises in Galician cuisine and seafood, is considered one of the best in the city.

The cool, Instagrammable Zahara restaurant in the centre of town specialises in tortillas, the Spanish potato omelette. The terrace serves as a meeting point for locals and tourists alike, who often stay in the small guesthouse that is part of the restaurant.

I really liked An Strato in Barrio Magdalena, which is also suitable for vegetarians. It has a chic interior and a large terrace that is particularly popular with young people.

On the last day, I treated myself to a café sólo with a delicious piece of cake in the Heladeria Alexandra overlooking the harbour. I could have sat there for hours if I hadn't had to go any further.

You can find numerous restaurant tips on the Visit Ferrol website.

The surroundings of Ferrol

Cabo Prior and a dream beach on the Spanish Atlantic coast

Ferrol has numerous beaches that can be reached in ten to 30 minutes by car. 14 km outside the centre is Cabo Prior with its lighthouse on a 107 m high hill. I can hardly believe it - I'm the only visitor here; my hire car stands lonely and abandoned in a small car park. Clearly, this is the opposite of the much-cited 'overtourism'! I scramble along the paths past abandoned little houses to get the best view of the breathtaking surroundings.

From a distance, I can see Playa Ponzos (the Galician road signs call the beaches 'praias'), which I reach after a few minutes' drive. The beauty of this vast, sandy beach, surrounded by lush green hills, almost leaves me speechless. There are no sunbeds, parasols or snack bars here; everything is unspoilt and above all a paradise for a handful of surfers who greet me with a friendly 'Hola'. I sit down on a rock and simply enjoy nature, the air, and the sound of the wild waves. The perfect place to meditate!

A Coruña (Spanish: La Coruña): Tower of Hercules and city beach

I can hardly tear myself away from this dream beach, but today the city of A Coruña is still on my programme. In just over an hour, I reach the metropolis that I almost didn't put on my list. As it turns out, that would have been a big mistake. The country roads are well-developed, and the last stretch is covered by the motorway again (toll!).

The Tower of Hercules - A Coruña's landmark

At first glance, A Coruña does not look particularly inviting with its faceless tower blocks. This changes abruptly when you reach the centre, which is located on a peninsula. My first stop is the Hercules Tower, just outside the centre, one of the oldest lighthouses in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2009. I realise that I can't visit all the sights in half a day, but this 59-metre-high landmark, built by the Romans in its original form in the 1st century, is, of course, a must-see. In its current form, A Coruña's landmark dates back to 1788; the beacon was installed in 1804.

I have no problem finding a free parking space and buying my admission ticket for EUR 3.09 (as of June 2025 - who came up with this unusual amount?). I walk around the grounds for a while before entering the tower (only 20 visitors are admitted every half hour). The ground floor, which spans three levels, dates back to Roman times, and I have to duck down on the way to the stairs due to the low ceiling. Presumably, these chambers were used as storage and a place of refuge at the time. Be that as it may, I am glad when I reach the 242 steps of the stone spiral staircase. I simply forget about my not yet fully recovered foot injury and make my way up, past the panting tourists taking a break. The reward at the top of the tower is a magnificent 360-degree view over A Coruña and the surrounding sea - breathtaking!

The hire car takes me to the centre of the provincial capital, which has a population of around 245,000. I'm glad to have found a parking space and make my way to the Paseo at the harbour. Once again, I can't get enough of the snow-white houses, up to eight storeys high, with the glazed wooden balconies so typical of Galicia.

Interesting fact: A Coruña is nicknamed the 'city of glass' due to the sparkling galleries in the sunlight.

A beach (almost) in the centre of the city

After a snack in a street café, I am drawn to the other side of the headland to the city beach. The houses here are not as pretty as those in the harbour, but the long promenade is perfect for quiet walks by the sea. The wide, sandy bay is impressive - I'm a little annoyed that I didn't bring my swimming trunks. Here and there, people loll around on the well-kept beach, older men have a chat on one of the many benches, and joggers do something for their fitness. What a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere! A Coruña is an ideal blend of a big city and a beach destination. The bay reminds me a little of Las Palmas de Gran Canaria. You can find smaller beaches right next to the Tower of Hercules.

Historical sights in A Coruña

A Coruña has a small, historic old town (Cidade Vella) with charming squares, town palaces, and small churches and monasteries. In contrast to the lively city centre, it is quiet here. In the south of the old town, you can enjoy a beautiful view of the harbour from a small park. The centerpiece is the Praza de María Pita, named after a local heroine who defended the city against an invasion led by Sir Francis Drake in 1589. The town hall (Palacio Municipal) is the centrepiece of the square. In the side streets of the square, you will find numerous cafés and restaurants ... perfect for chilling out after all the sightseeing. 

Off to the wild north coast of Galicia

After so much city sightseeing, it's back to nature the next day. On my programme is the spectacular north coast of Galicia. The Atlantic coast of Spain shows its wildest side here. A good 45-minute drive from Ferrol takes me to the pilgrimage village of San Andrés de Teixido.  Here - after the Torre de Hercules - I encounter coaches and a manageable crowd of tourists for the first time. Local products are on sale at souvenir stalls, and a few taverns invite you to linger in the tiny village. The little church is the destination of many pilgrims and, with its location on the cliffs of the Sierra da A Capelada offers magnificent photo opportunities.

Break in picturesque Cedeira

I decide to take a lunch break in the small town of Cedeira and make a worthwhile stop at the Chao do Monte viewpoint on the way. The path leads over rocks to a plateau with a breathtaking view of the sea and San Andrés de Teixido. I can't resist taking a selfie, even though I don't really like it that much. A well-maintained country road then takes me through a beautiful countryside to Cedeira, which, despite its population of just 4,500, feels like a small town.

The little white town nestles picturesquely along the Ría de Cedeira on the southern slopes of the Sierra da A Capelada. This mountainous peninsula in the Rías Altas boasts the highest cliffs in Europe, where wild horses reside on the plateau.

There are some charming taverns with terraces on the promenade of the almost dried-up Condominas River, just behind which lies the small, old town with the 16th-century bell tower of the Nosa Señora do Mar church, which is well worth seeing. Further south, some sandy beaches are very popular with Spaniards, such as Praia da Madalena.

Even more viewpoints (miradoiros)

A sign with the inscription 'Miradoiro de Punta Candleira' arouses my curiosity. After a short drive through a kind of fairytale forest, I reach a pretty little lighthouse at the end of the road with a view of the sea raging around the high cliffs. My smartphone must be bursting with photos! Once again, I'm all alone here. The lighthouse is uninhabited. On the way back, I make a stop at the Mirador de Santo Antón de Corveiro, with its small church and a view of the beaches of Cedeira. Which view was the best today? I can't say for the life of me. Galicia inspires me with its wild coasts and deep blue sea.

If I had more time, I would drive along the coast of death, known as the 'Costa da Morte' because of its dangerous sections, especially in winter, to the Praia das Catedrais (Beach of the Cathedrals) with its gigantic pinnacles and sea caves, to walk through sandy corridors. Unfortunately, that's too far today and I'm already travelling back to Madrid the next day. So I'm determined to travel to Galicia again. Let's see when I can make it.

How do you get to Galicia?

The quickest way to get to Galicia is to fly to one of the three international airports: Lavacolla in Santiago de Compostela; Alvedro in Coruña, and Peinador in Vigo. From here you can easily reach any tourist destination.

As mentioned, I combined a visit to Galicia with a stay in Madrid. The AVE high-speed train took me from the Spanish capital to Santiago de Compostela in just over three hours - a pleasant and trouble-free journey. The railway network also offers good connections between the various towns in Galicia.

Travelling with a rental car

However, we recommend hiring a car for your trip to northern Spain. I have had excellent experiences with the online car hire company Habi Cars in Santiago de Compostela. The vehicle is brought to your hotel, and you can return it to the train station in Santiago, for example. Very friendly and fast service, along with the impeccable condition of the vehicles, makes Habi a first choice. The roads and motorways in Galicia are generally well developed and pleasant to drive.

GASTRONOMY IN SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA: GALICIAN SPECIALITIES 

Galicia is renowned for its seafood, including mussels, prawns, and crabs. Pulpo a la Gallega', a dish made from boiled octopus, is a local speciality. I prefer the "Pimientos de Padrón", small green peppers fried with salt. You should definitely try the famous "Tarta de Santiago", a delicious almond cake with usually only three ingredients. Some of the local wines have won awards. The dark lager Estrella Galicia is internationally renowned. 

What is the weather like in Galicia?

With an average daily maximum temperature of 19 degrees, Galicia is one of the cooler regions in Spain. The best time to visit is from June to August, when the temperatures are warmer. In contrast, the cold months from November to March, when it rains more often (hence the lush vegetation), are less attractive for tourists. The proximity to the Atlantic Ocean ensures consistently high humidity, and temperatures rarely reach extreme levels. Summers are generally pleasantly warm without excessive heat.

LANGUAGES IN GALICIA: GALIC AND SPANISH

 In northwest Spain, around three million people speak Galician, as well as Spanish. Galician is similar to Portuguese. During my stay, I heard more Spanish than Galician, which could of course be due to the many Spanish tourists.

My conclusion about Galicia

- Interesting mix of historic cities and magnificent nature
- Delightful climate
- Hardly overcrowded, even in high season
- Spain with a difference
- Ideal for switching off

On a side note: while the President of the German Bundestag bans the flying of the rainbow flag in Berlin during Pride month in June, I spot it in every town in Galicia. Spain is a pleasantly tolerant country. Another thing I like about Galicia is that there are no bullfights here.

*My trip was supported by Turespaña and the Paradores. However, this did not influence my ratings in any way.*

Are you also interested in other Spanish cities? Then take a look at my articles about Cádiz, Granada, Málaga, and Sevilla. 
- If you are looking for spectacular Spanish beaches, I recommend the Canary Island of Fuerteventura.