Sevilla - my personal Highlights in the Andalusian Metropolis
Two exciting Days in one of the most beautiful Cities in Europe
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From Granada to Seville
From Granada, I travelled to Seville in just under three hours. Once again, there is not a lot of traffic on the motorway, passing endless olive groves, rugged cliffs, and Andalusian villages. I love the aforementioned central reservation planted with oleanders. Shortly before Seville, the landscape becomes flat. I am glad I reached my destination this time without any major detours. I park my hire car directly in front of the Hotel Gravina 51, and a hotel employee is immediately on hand to park the car in a garage, as agreed. Two car-free days follow for me.
SOARING HIGH IN SEVILLE
I briefly go through my programme with the friendly receptionist at Gravina 51 and am pleased that I can easily see the planned sights in Seville in two days. Quickly go to my room, unpack, shower, and nibble on the small delicacies the hotel management had left in my room. Then it's straight to the Torre Sevilla, the tallest building in Andalusia at 180 metres. I cross the Guadalquivir, which runs through Andalusia for 657 kilometres. A thermometer on the bridge reads 36 degrees Celsius. I wouldn't say I like the heat, but I don't mind it much these days. It's probably because I can always retreat to an air-conditioned room and look forward to the experiences ahead.
The Torre Sevilla is an impressive strange body in Seville with its otherwise relatively low buildings - apart from the 94 metre high Giralda, but more later. Among other things, the tower houses the luxury Eurostars hotel with 244 rooms on the 19 highest floors of the building (40 in total). At the very top is a chic, enclosed panorama bar, which non-hotel guests can visit without problems. Of course, the view is spectacular, and you get an excellent overview of Seville. I am pleased to realize that I can explore most of the planned sights on foot from my hotel. Back downstairs, I look at the hypermodern shopping centre at the Torre with the Caixa Forum exhibition space. Here, Seville presents itself from a completely unfamiliar but no less exciting side.
Picturesque Triana neighbourhood
A 10-minute walk takes you to the Triana neighbourhood, which lies on the banks of the Guadalquivir. The contrast to the Torre could not be more significant. Pretty Andalusian houses are on small streets and alleyways, and numerous restaurants with terraces are right by the river. Alongside Cádiz and Jerez de la Frontera, Triana is the birthplace of flamenco. The Triana Ceramic Centre is a reminiscence of the ceramic factories that were in operation in Seville until recently. Many houses are adorned with colourful ceramic tiles called "azulejos."
An absolute eye-catcher in Triana is the Puente de Isabel II bridge, also known as the Puente de Triana. It was modelled on a bridge in Paris and is considered the oldest surviving iron bridge in Spain. From the bridge, you have a fantastic view of the old town of Seville. I quickly take a few photos, then it's time for refreshment in the heat. I treat myself to a smoothie in a pretty café on the riverbank.
The golden Tower
I walk along the river, past chic bar Abades directly above the water, before crossing the Guadalquivir again. My destination is the Torre del Oro, a 36 metre high tower built by the Almohads in the 12th century as part of the Moorish city wall. I find the origin of its name interesting, which literally translates as "gold tower." During Andalusia's heyday, the gold transported by ship from the Latin American colonies was unloaded here - indeed, not a glorious anecdote from Spain's history. Today, the gold tower houses a naval museum.
Curious fact: There is still a legend surrounding the "Gold Tower". It says that King Pedro the Cruel housed his lovers in the tower. The gold refers to the splendour of the hair of one of these ladies, who thought she had lost her husband in the war. The king fell in love with her - but imprisoned her when she cut her hair against his will.
From the riverbank, I have a fantastic view of the colourful houses of Triana on the other side, Instagram calling. By now, it's time for a siesta. I walk past the swanky bullring (no, I'm not taking a photo here...) back to the hotel. The days are long in the middle of June, so the evenings are perfect for taking pictures.
THE "SETAS" - TOP SIGHT IN SEVILLE
After a siesta, I set off in the early evening to the so-called "setas", the "mushrooms" of Seville (also known as "parasol"). Opened in 2011, this ultra-modern wooden structure (considered the largest in the world) has become one of Seville's top sights over the years. The German architect Jürgen Mayer won a design competition to revitalise the Plaza de la Encarnación - very well deserved, in my opinion. You can stroll along a path above the six parasols (sunshades) and enjoy fantastic views from the terrace. Inside the umbrellas are tapas bars and an event area, and in the basement, there is a museum antiquarium with archaeological remains found on site. What a surprise in the centre of Seville!
SHOPPING UNTIL 1 O'CLOCK IN THE MORNING
I treat myself to a few delicious tapas in a nearby restaurant - how could it be otherwise? I enjoy the last rays of sunshine of the day and slowly return to the hotel. The next morning, I have to pick up my ticket for the Real Alcazar, one of Seville's top sights, at 9.30 am sharp. On the way, I notice many people with shopping bags coming out of the large El Corte Inglés department stores. At the entrance door, I discover that this temple of consumption is open until 1 am every day. Shop until you drop!
HOTEL GRAVINA 51 - MY DOMICILE IN SEVILLE
The breakfast at Hotel Gravina 51 is among the best I have ever enjoyed. A pleasant, quiet atmosphere, courteous service, and an excellent buffet make for a perfect start to the day. I really like this small, not relatively inexpensive boutique hotel in a quiet, central side street. Tasteful furnishings, helpful staff, and a small roof terrace for chilling out make the stay extremely pleasant.
REAL ALCAZAR - A ROYAL PALACE
The historic centre of Seville, with its significant sights such as the Giralda and the Real Alcazar, is just a 15-minute walk away. This Sunday morning's atmosphere is peaceful, and the temperatures remain enjoyable. Church bells are ringing, and the sun is shining from a blue sky. The day is almost perfect for exploring the Real Alcazar - a UNESCO World Heritage Site - with its palaces and gardens. Like the Alhambra in Granada, the Alcazar was originally a monument from the Moorish period. Under the Catholic Monarchs, the Alcazar was extended from the 16th century onwards with Gothic elements, starkly contrasting the dominant Mudejar architecture from the period of Islamic rule. Today, the Spanish royal family uses the Alcazar when in Seville.
I was particularly impressed by the "Salón de Embajadores" (Ambassadors' Hall) with its magnificent cedar dome. In 1503, King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella received the explorer Columbus in the "Casa de Contratación" (Treaty House)—at the time, Spanish trade with the New World was also administered here. Art in the form of historical paintings and tapestries can be admired throughout the rooms alongside the impressive architecture from various stylistic periods.
BLOOMING GARDENS AND COLOURFUL BIRDS
The Alcazar is surrounded by a magnificent 60,000 square metre garden, which is actually a park in itself. A loud cry pierces the silence on this Sunday morning. I spot a colourful peacock on a wall and quickly take a photo - unaware that the garden is full of these magnificent birds. They fit wonderfully into this setting with numerous trees, over 170 plant species, ponds, fountains, and ornate flower pots. A walk through this park is almost meditative.
Tip: It's best to book your ticket for the Alcazar online in advance.
THE GIRALDA - TOP SIGHT IN SEVILLE
I spent a good two hours in the Real Alcazar, which was almost too short. But I still had a lot planned for that day. In the immediate vicinity of the Alcazar is the landmark of Seville, the Giralda. Here, too, the elements of Islamic and Christian architecture are combined. The Giralda was once the minaret of Seville's main mosque; today, it is the bell tower of the cathedral.
After the Christian reconquest in 1248, the mosque was initially used as a church before being demolished in the 15th century and rebuilt as a late Gothic cathedral. The former minaret remained virtually undamaged and is still the city's most important landmark, visible from afar. I have already visited several places of worship on this trip. Still, I also take a quick look inside this imposing cathedral.
PICTURESQUE SANTA CRUZ
Passing the Plaza Virgen de los Reyes, one of Seville's busiest and most striking squares with a beautiful view of the Giralda, I head into the charming Santa Cruz district, which immediately becomes one of my favourites in this city. Here I could stroll for hours through the narrow streets and alleyways and watch the hustle and bustle over a café sólo in one of the numerous pavement cafés.
Santa Cruz was the Jewish quarter of Seville until their expulsion in 1492. Today, with the monuments right "next door", it is the city's tourist center. I take a breather with an espresso and smoothie in the charming Café Delatribu before discovering an interesting boutique, of which there are quite a few here. In addition to all sorts of odds and ends, I come across summer shirts that are exactly to my taste. I buy a shirt and a leather neck bracelet for relatively little money - when I like something, I buy it in no time.
Orange Tree Sevilla sells almost everything you can make, from oranges and their blossoms to jam and pastries to body care and orange vermouth.
PLAZA ESPAÑA - THE CULTURAL HEART OF SEVILLE
It's early afternoon, and I'm keen to get to Plaza España, a gigantic square surrounded by magnificent government buildings and two towers decorated with over 7,000 colorful ceramic tiles. Scenes for several Star Wars films were shot here. The Plaza was designed in 1928 for the Ibero-American Exhibition. Its semi-circular shape represents Spain's relationship with its former colonies.
A canal symbolises the ocean that connects Spain with South America. In summer, concerts by international stars take place here. I spot well-known names such as Tom Jones, Maluma, David Bisbal, Loreena McKennitt, Take That, and the indestructible Ricky Martin on a plaque. Right next door, you can walk in the huge Maria Luisa Park for fresh air and watch the locals enjoying their Sunday leisure activities.
ONE BUILDING MORE BEAUTIFUL THAN THE NEXT
I look at the pretty Teatro Lope de Vega before heading back to the centre, a 20-minute walk away. On the way, I notice the Alfonso XIII, probably the best hotel in Seville - a historic palace surrounded by beautiful gardens. Right next to it is the impressive Palacio de San Telmo, the seat of Seville's autonomous government, which is highly Instagrammable.
TAPAS AGAIN AND AGAIN...
After so much shopping, culture, and nature, it's time for a siesta at the hotel. After 6 pm - when the heat subsides a little - I can do the rest of my sightseeing, enjoy some tapas, and take some photos. In the early evening, I want to look at the Callejón del Agua (water alley) in the Santa Cruz neighbourhood. During Moorish rule, two pipes transported water from the River Guadalquivir to the Alcazar. What else was there back then! The Callejón is said to have inspired Rossini to write his masterpiece "The Barber of Seville". I take another walk to the "Zona de Monumentos" in the centre of Seville and enjoy - how could it be otherwise - tapas in one of the many restaurants. On the menu, I discover the typical Seville "garbanzos con espinacas" - chickpeas with spinach - which quickly became one of my tapas favourites. They are not only delicious but also extremely healthy.
Curious: Where does the name "tapas" actually come from? It is believed that King Alfonso XIII stopped off on a journey through the province of Cádiz and ordered a glass of sherry. A strong wind was blowing, kicking up dust. The clever waiter placed a slice of ham on the royal glass to protect its contents. The tapa (lid) was born. By decree, the king ordered all inns in Spain to only serve wine accompanied by a tapa. This tradition became increasingly popular over time and still is today. You can easily eat your fill of various tapas (meat, fish/seafood, vegetables).
ABOVE THE ROOFTOPS OF SEVILLE
To round off a wonderful day, I treat myself to a drink in the small Arts Sky Bar with its impressive view of the cathedral - just right for a sundowner in a relaxed atmosphere. A mist of water atomised from jets - which can be found on many terraces in Seville - provides a pleasant way to cool off. The owner will soon offer four studios in the same building. "This is something for people who like to be in the centre of the action and like it loud." In other words - not necessarily for me!
HOW DO YOU GET TO SEVILLE
Seville has an airport that mainly offers domestic flights and some international flights - e.g. Lufthansa from Frankfurt. You can reach the city centre by bus from the airport in around 35 minutes. Otherwise, there are good connections with high-speed trains, e.g. from Madrid (four hours). Santa Justa train station is only a 15-minute walk from the city centre.
TRAVELLING IN SEVILLE
As I usually do, I explored Seville exclusively on foot. I was able to reach most of the sights from Hotel Gravina 51 in a good 15 minutes. The exception was Plaza España, which took me about 30 minutes. Incidentally, unlike Granada and Málaga, Seville is also very flat. There are kilometres of cycle paths. Seville has a very modern metro line that crosses the city from east to west.
The best time to visit Seville
Spring and autumn are certainly the best months for sightseeing in Seville. There is usually little rain from May onwards and temperatures are still relatively pleasant until June. The city is very lively before Semana Santa (Easter) and the Feria de Abril. In July and August it is often too hot, before it becomes more pleasant again from September to the end of October, often with blue skies. Winters are usually quite mild, although rain is to be expected. January and February are the coolest months. "You don't need a coat here in winter, a jacket is enough," says the charming receptionist at Gravina 51.
SLEEPING IN SEVILLE
I spent two nights at the charming Hotel Gravina 51, which is characterised by its central location and excellent service. The best hotel on the square is certainly the historic Alfonso XIII GL. Those who prefer a more modern style will certainly get their money's worth at the aforementioned Eurostars in the Torre Sevilla. Otherwise, there is of course accommodation in all categories, especially charming small boutique hotels.
FEASTING IN SEVILLE
I have already written extensively about tapas. You can try them in Seville on almost every corner - simple or a little more avant-garde. Vegetarians and vegans also get their money's worth with tapas, even if the selection is not very large. El Librero near the Alcazar is considered one of the best tapas restaurants, offering 60 types of cheese as well as vegan and vegetarian dishes.
A typical Andalusian specialty is a gazpacho, a cold tomato soup perfect for hot days. Another Andalusian speciality is pescaito frito—various fried fish served in small bites. In the historic market hall Lonja de Feria (Calle Feria), there is plenty of fresh fish and seafood as well as various tapas stalls, which are extremely popular with locals and cheaper than restaurants. Most stalls close in the late afternoon.
Another well-known gastro market is the Lonja del Barranco on the banks of the Guadalquivir, which has over twenty establishments where you can eat and even buy cool souvenirs. At the Triana market, you can enjoy craft beer and live music in a small theatre, among other things.
Those with a sweet tooth will love the nostalgic pastry shop Confiteria La Campana, founded in 1885, near the "Setas."
Tip: Treat yourself to a cocktail on the terrace of the chic bar Abades, which is right on the Guadalquivir and has a view of the Torre del Oro.
Some facts about Seville
- The largest city in Andalusia with approx. 700,000 inhabitants
- Capital of the autonomous province of Andalusia
- Seville has the most significant historic centre in Spain
- Conquered by the Moors in 712
- Reconquest by the Christians in 1248 (much earlier than the rest of Andalusia)
- Host of Expo 1992 (for the second time after 1929)
As part of my Andalusia trip, I also visited Málaga, Granada, and Cádiz—see my articles about these two beautiful cities.
How about more Spain? If you look breathtaking beaches, the Canary Island of Fuerteventura might be an option.
*Turespaña and Turismo Andalucia organized my trip, but this has not affected my ratings in any way.*
