GRANADA - MY PERSONAL HIGHLIGHTS IN A VERY UNIQUE CITY
TIPS FOR TWO PERFECT DAYS IN ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL CITIES IN EUROPE
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FROM MÁLAGA TO GRANADA
After an exciting stay in Málaga, I continue my journey to Granada. The trip takes two hours and leads through the marvelous Andalusian landscape with rugged mountains, olive groves, and picturesque villages. Shortly before Granada, the majestic mountains of the Sierra Nevada rise up. I even spot snow in some of the hollows on the peaks while the temperatures in the valley are already climbing above the 30-degree mark. At 3,479 metres, the Mulhacén is the highest peak on the Iberian Peninsula.
INTO THE MAZE OF ALLEYWAYS
A staff member at my hotel had warned me in advance not to use a GPS in the city and, therefore, sent me (almost) foolproof directions. Shortly before my destination, however, I get lost and start to follow the route again. This time, it works, and I'm glad to have maneuvered my rental car through the narrow streets. Tomorrow, the car stays in the car park!
My accommodation, the Sercotel Pálacio de los Gamboa, is an attractive four-star hotel in a city palace. I prefer modern, purist hotels - but a traditional, Spanish-style hotel is excellent for a change. It's also centrally located.
FIRST HIGHLIGHT IN GRANADA: THE CATHEDRAL
After a quick shower and unpacking, off we go—I have an appointment with a local friend to explore Granada for the first time. The meeting point is Plaza Isabel La Católica in the center of Granada, a mixture of history, culture, and modern city life. Magnificent baroque and Renaissance-style buildings immediately catch my eye. Refreshed with a café sólo, it's just a few minutes to Granada Cathedral, which was consecrated in 1561.
Construction began in the Gothic style, and the cathedral later became Spain's first Renaissance church. I take a look at the Capilla Real (admission 6 EUR per person—as of July 2024), where Queen Isabella and her husband, Ferdinand II, rest. Their coffins were transferred here from the Alhambra in 1520. But now it's time to get some fresh air, as I still have a few things on my agenda for the day.
PARADISE OF MEDICAL HERBS
We quickly look at the Alcaiceria market, a bazaar founded by the Moors. It is now somewhat touristy with its souvenir and fabric shops. It's worth making a quick stop at a fragrant spice shop, which has a remedy for every ailment.
CHURROS!
In the meantime, anticipation builds up on Plaza Bib-Rambla because this is where the famous Café Alhambra is located. Café Alhambra is known for its "churros con chocolate." The rather greasy, crispy curls are dipped in chocolate. The friendly waiter can hardly believe that we are giving up the chocolate—but I want to save my stomach for further sins and, above all, explorations.
Interesting fact: the square where locals and tourists sit in the cafés today was once a slave market during the Muslim rule.
TOP SIGHTSEEING ATTRACTION: THE ALBAICIN QUARTER
We really want to experience the sunset at the Mirador de Carvajales, which offers one of the best view of the Alhambra. So off we go to the Albaicin neighbourhood, with its pretty alleyways and countless shops and restaurants. On the way, I admire the magnificent Justice Court Hall before we stroll along the romantic Paseo de los Tristes (Path of the Sad - the name goes back to funeral processions on the way to the cemetery) and make a detour to the small perfume museum (admission is free). Here, you can have your own personalised perfume created using natural ingredients.
BEST VIEWS
Then, it's up numerous steps to the Mirador Carvajales, one of the top viewpoints in Granada. There is a small mosque on the hill, and traces of the Moorish period are omnipresent in Granada. We treat ourselves to a smoothie on the terrace of a Moroccan "teteria" (the counterpart to a "cafeteria," so to speak - another lesson learned!) The view of the Alhambra, which I have planned to visit the next day, is spectacular. Tourists tirelessly take selfies, while some Spaniards pick up their guitars and provide musical accompaniment to the incredible scenario. A light breeze makes the heat very pleasant. Granada, te quiero mucho - Granada, I love you so much!
As hard as it is to tear ourselves away from the views, we slowly have to return to the city. We take the stairs and alleyways through the picturesque Albaicin neighbourhood, past magnificent door arches with Arabic lettering and white houses. The neighbourhood is remarkably clean. A pretty cat watches us from a window and can be photographed peacefully.
Curious fact: Albaicin is also home to the narrowest street in Granada - Calle Caldereria Nueva is just one and a half metres wide.Stu
Tapas in Calle ELVIRA
In the hustle and bustle of Albaicin's main street, we find a spot in a tapas restaurant in the lively Calle Elvira, which isn't so easy with so many people around. Our brightly made-up Moroccan waitress is super nice and enjoys a little chat in Arabic with my friend Omar, who is also Moroccan. Guitar music plays again in the balmy Granada evening breeze—pure Spanish atmosphere.
Curious fact: In many bars in Granada, you get a free tapa with your beer or wine. This tradition goes back to the time of the Catholic Monarchs when a snack was served with wine to reduce the effect of alcohol.
Despite the full programme, I decided to take a stroll through the Albaicin district the next day—it's worth it! In some places, you feel like you're in a souk in North Africa.
What a first day in Granada - this wonderful city has already enchanted me.
ALHAMBRA - AT LAST!
I don't want to sleep in the next day, I want to have breakfast in peace and take the shuttle bus from the city to the Alhambra, the imposing fortress on Sabikah Hill, at 9.00 am. I bought the Granada Card in advance, which includes entry to the Alhambra, the city's main sights and bus transfers. The card costs between EUR 46.92 and EUR 56.57, depending on its scope and duration (as of July 2024). The bus takes visitors from Plaza Isabel La Católica to the main entrance of the Alhambra in just over 15 minutes, where the tour begins with the magnificent Generalife Gardens.
My tip: Plan at least three hours for Alhambra (a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1984 and one of the most important examples of Islamic architecture) to see everything at your leisure.
THE SPECTACULAR GARDENS OF THE GENERALIFE
The gardens were not overcrowded this morning, and the temperatures were pleasant. I need to figure out where to look first. The gardens were initially intended for strolls by the sultans who ruled Granada at the time. Orchards, fountains, numerous plants, and views of the Alcazaba fortress and the city are simply magnificent.
Particularly impressive is the "Escalera del Agua," a water staircase considered one of the most innovative elements of the Generalife Gardens. It was built during Islamic rule, is surrounded by laurel trees, and has three flights of steps with water channels as railings. The Escalera del Agua leads to the highest part of the Generalife Gardens, with a breathtaking view. I sit down on one of the many benches and enjoy the view and nature to the full. What a marvelous morning!
The Alcazaba (citadel), with its walls and towers, was the defense system in the 13th and 14th centuries, the bulwark of the Alhambra, so to speak, to fend off attacks and protect the Sultan. The oldest part of the fortress offers stunning views of Granada, especially from the watchtower.
Interesting fact: Alhambra was an independent city in Moorish times, with bunkers, armories, steam baths, and a bread oven.
The last Moorish ruler capitulated after a long siege and handed the fortress to the Catholic Monarchs in 1492, signaling the end of Moorish rule in Spain that had begun in 711.
LUNCH AT THE PARADOR
A parador, one of those traditional Spanish hotels, is not far from the Alcazaba. I savour a refreshing gazpacho on the airy terrace before continuing on to the Nasrid Palaces. I've been allocated a fixed slot for 1.30 pm - a reservation is essential.
ARABIC ARCHITECTURE IN PERFECTION - THE NASRID PALACES
The so-called Palacios Nazaries, with their gardens, are the centrepiece of the Alhambra. This was the seat of government and the private rooms of the Moorish rulers in the 14th and 15th centuries. What was created at this time is unbelievable - marvelous arabesques, Arabic stucco lettering, and the marble lion fountain inside the Alcázar. The many smartphones of international visitors are out again; my mobile phone is literally bursting with photos.
BACK TO THE ALBAICIN
After my half-day tour of all the Alhambra complexes, I take the bus back to the city centre. I need a siesta before heading back to the Albaicin neighbourhood described above. With the Granada Card, you can see more sights there. I was recommended the Arab baths ("El Bañuelo") and the "Casa de Zafra", a small museum on the history of Granada. To be honest - after the Alhambra, this is just an excellent addition, nothing more. I let myself drift through the picturesque alleyways of Albaicin and discover an Indian restaurant that serves vegan and vegetarian dishes. For me, this is a welcome change after all the tapas in Málaga and Granada and almost marks the end of the second stage of my Andalusia trip. In the centre, I take a look at the small botanical garden of the university in the centre of Granada and enjoy a nightcap on the terrace of one of the many trendy bars
By the way, Granada is the birthplace of flamenco. Numerous small bodegas advertise flamenco evenings, and the world's most important festivals in honor of this dance are celebrated in Granada.
HOW TO GET TO GRANADA
Granada has a small airport but no direct connection to Germany. If you are travelling by plane, you will need to plan a stopover in Madrid or Barcelona - alternatively, you can also fly to Málaga (worth it!) and travel from there to Granada by bus or rental car (each takes around two hours). Otherwise, there are good train connections, for example from Madrid (approx. five and a half hours) or Seville (approx. four hours).
TRAVELLING IN GRANADA
With a population of around 240,000, Granada is quite manageable. You can explore most sights on foot (important: comfortable shoes!). I recommend taking the bus or a taxi to visit Alhambra, which is situated on a hill. By the way, Granada is only 65 kilometres away from the sea.
BEST TIME TO VISIT GRANADA
April to June and the end of September to November are definitely the best times to visit Granada. It is usually quite warm during these months, and then it gets very hot in July and August. Winters are relatively mild, sometimes a little rainy, and quite chilly at night. My friend Omar told me about a temperature of one degree C on New Year's Day last year.
SLEEPING IN GRANADA
I spent two nights at the Sercotel Pálacio de los Gamboa****, which is characterised by its central location and traditional Spanish style. During my stay, I also checked out the chic Seda Club Hotel in the centre, which is part of the Hidden Away Hotels and meets high standards. An unusual place to stay is the Parador right next to the Alhambra. Otherwise, of course, there is accommodation in all categories, especially charming small boutique hotels.
FEASTING IN GRANADA
The "churros con chocolate" in the traditional Café Alhambra are a must - you can work off the calories during many sightseeing tours. Right next door, you will also find modern coffee shops at Plaza Bib-Rambla. For tapas and international specialties (especially Arabic), I recommend Calle Navas in the Albaicin district. If you want to crown your stay in Granada with fine dining, the chic "The Fork" in the Seda Club Hotel is an excellent option.
Tip: The Granada Tapas Tours agency organizes various tours in Granada (also in German!), where you can learn a lot about these little delicacies, local beers, and wines. There are approximately 2,000 bars and restaurants in Granada! My tapa favorite is the "Tortilla española," a delicious potato omelet. But of course, you can also go for something more unusual.
Prior to Granada, I spent four amazing days in Málaga on the Costa del Sol - a perfect combination!
From Granada, I traveled on to Sevilla and Cádiz. Have a look at my articles about these two unique cities.
If you are looking for a beach destination in Spain, how about the Canary Island of Fuerteventura?
*My trip was organised by Turespaña and Turismo Andalucia. However, this has in no way affected my ratings.*
