Cádiz - four exciting days in the Metropolis on the Atlantic
One of the oldest cities in Western Europe. It fascinates with its Architecture, History, and breathtaking Beaches.
*Promotion*
CÁDIZ - LAST STOP ON MY TRIP TO ANDALUSIA
Eventful days in Málaga, Granada, and Seville are behind me. I am looking forward to a few days by the sea in Cádiz. The journey from Seville takes less than two hours, and once again, the motorway is relatively empty. A first highlight awaits me as I drive over the 1,180 metre-long Puente de la Constitución de 1812 (Bridge of the Constitution of 1812 - also known colloquially as Puente de la Pepa), which opened in 2016. This architectural masterpiece has the third-largest span of all cable-stayed bridges in Europe and is the longest bridge in Spain.
LIGHT SEA BREEZE
It is only a few minute's drive from the bridge to the historic center of Cádiz (the modern part of the city is less attractive). I quickly reach the car park, where my hire car remains untouched for the next few days. In a few minutes, I go to my accommodation, the Hotel Soho Boutique Cádiz, in a very central location. I have arrived a little early. My room is not yet ready, so I have time for a stroll along Calle Nueva, one of the main streets in the pedestrian area of Cádiz. After the heat in Granada and Seville, the temperature here is enjoyable, and a light breeze from the sea surrounds the city. With just 120,000 inhabitants, Cádiz is quite manageable, and the sights in the center are easy to explore on foot.
Interesting fact: Cádiz is considered the oldest city in Western Europe, probably founded between the 8th and 11th centuries BC. Under the Phoenicians, the city was called Gadir, while the Romans called it Gades. The inhabitants are still called 'Gaditanos' today.
After a bit of refreshment, it's back to the hotel - unpack, shower, and off to explore further. Through a maze of streets, I reach the waterfront promenade, which is often compared to the Malecón in Havana. Seagulls screech, and it smells pleasantly of the sea. The massive cathedral, the most famous sight in Cádiz, immediately catches the eye. My destination is the Castillo San Sebastián, a small fortress in front of the romantic Caleta Bay.
LITTLE ISLAND WITH FORTRESS
Dozens of small boats bob on the sea, and sunbathers have made themselves comfortable on the beach. The islet has been connected to the mainland by a pier since 1860. I walk to the castle, closed at this time of year (it has since reopened). No matter - I enjoy the beautiful views of the city and the almost crystal-clear sea and take a deep breath. Numerous joggers, cyclists, and scooter riders are out and about in the early evening hours. I notice only a few cafés on the promenade; you must go to one of the parallel streets for a drink. The range of cafés there is excellent. Once again, I treat myself to tapas on a terrace and look forward to relaxing days in Cádiz.
VISIT TO THE TOWN HALL
My explorations the following day begin in the Plaza de San Juan de Dios, directly in front of the mighty, unmissable town hall. Today, to my delight, there is a small market for handicrafts here without the usual tourist kitsch. I buy a bracelet (once again) and make my way to the town hall, which surprisingly can also be visited inside (admission is free). The visit is worthwhile, mainly because of the magnificent halls and impressive plaza views.
THE CATHEDRAL - THE LANDMARK OF CÁDIZ
The famous 18th-century Cadiz Cathedral, the city's landmark by the sea, is located nearby. Its domed roof is clearly visible from almost every point in the city.
HIGH UP
For EUR 7 (as of June 2024), you can visit the church, which combines baroque, rococo, and neoclassical styles, and scramble up the 52-metre-high tower along a circular path that ends in a steep staircase. It's worth the effort! The mighty bells ring every 15 minutes, and the city and the sea views are magnificent. The famous composer Manuel de Falla (1876 - 1946) rests in the crypt, which is also well worth a visit.
EL CAFÉ DE ANA - INSTAGRAM IS CALLING!
After these two imposing buildings, I'm drawn outside again. On Calle Nueva, I notice the Café de Ana decorated with lush flowers. The colourful assortment in this café is well worth seeing. However, I prefer a seat on the small terrace, watching people, a pretty dog chasing pigeons, and listening to the guitar sounds of the street musicians. The menu holds many surprises - you can enjoy breakfast specialities from all over the world all day. For EUR 26, I savour eggs Benedict, toast, avocado, fresh juice, and espresso.
Tip: Café de Ana offers numerous great Instagram opportunities inside and out.
A local tells me that the club directly opposite is the only one in the city open until early morning. However, this is irrelevant to me; my wild clubbing days were long ago.
ALL KINDS OF SEA CREATURES AT THE MARKET
Later, I look at the Mercado Central de Cadiz on Plaza Libertad, which had been around since 1838. There are over 50 stalls selling fruit, vegetables, meat, fish, seafood and of course ... tapas. A gigantic tuna fish awaits a buyer. However, this Mercado cannot stand up to comparison with the market hall in Málaga.
Tip: It's best to visit the market in the morning to watch the hustle and bustle. The market opens at 9 am every day and is closed on Sundays.
CHURROS, COFFEE, FLOWERS...
The popular café bar La Marina is next to the market. It is best known for its churros and coffee specialties.
As the name suggests, there are many stalls selling flowers on the neighbouring Plaza de las Flores. An eye-catcher in this square is the post office from the mid-18th century, which immediately catches the eye with its baroque, column-framed portal.
PHOTOS FROM LATIN AMERICA
I am drawn to the sea again, where I love to sit on the wall, watch the many cats on the stones, and enjoy everything without a smartphone. I can't get enough of the fresh breeze. On a stroll along the Atlantic, I discover the Casa de Iberoamérica, a pretty museum (admission free!) in a building from the 18th century. In June 2024, there will be an exhibition of exciting photographs from the Dominican Republic to admire alongside magnificent courtyards with lots of greenery. In short - well worth a visit!
EVEN MORE BEACHES
Directly behind it, the view opens to another beach in Cádiz, which I save for my last day. I stroll to the Puerta de Torre, the former city gate of Cádiz with a striking tower and a marble gate dating back to 1756.
After so much sightseeing, it's time for dinner. By chance, I discover an oriental restaurant near the cathedral. For a change, Puerta del Eden doesn't serve tapas but Arabic specialities such as delicious hummus with refined spices. Vegans and vegetarians also get their money's worth here, and the service is very charming - thumbs up!
An eventful day comes to an end. I ask myself whether I could live in Cádiz, and the answer was YES. That doesn't happen that often.
BREAKFAST 'AL FRESCO'
The following day, all the tables in the small restaurant in the Soho Boutique Hotel are occupied. I don't feel like waiting in the morning, so I went to La Marquesa de las Huevas restaurant. Having breakfast in the fresh air is more pleasant, and the coffee here is also better than in the hotel. I can also watch the hustle and bustle on Calle Nueva.
ANOTHER FORTRESS
On the first day, I had noticed a small fortress near San Sebastian Castle.
So I set off again to La Caleta beach, at the end of which is the small 16th-century Santa Catalina castle. Just before it, a pretty white building catches my eye. Unfortunately, this beach pavilion from the fashionable 1920s is a bit run-down. What could be done with this little gem?!
JAMES BOND WAS ALSO HERE
Playa de la Caleta was already famous with the Spanish aristocracy in the 19th century. In Spain's heyday, the old harbour was the gateway to South America, so to speak. Years ago, scenes for James Bond films were shot here. I have no luck with the fortresses, and Santa Catalina Castle is also closed during my visit. But at least I can take a few nice snapshots from the outside.
A VERY UNUSUAL PARADOR
A few minutes' walk further on is a surprise—an ultra-modern, avant-garde Parador. It seems a little austere even for my rather purist taste and is completely out of keeping with this traditional hotel chain. It is the only hotel in the centre of Cádiz located directly by the sea.
THE MOST BEAUTIFUL PARK IN CÁDIZ
The neighbouring small Parque Genovés by the sea, very close to the Campus de Cádiz, dates back to the 18th century and is well worth a visit. From 1892, the garden architect Gerónimo Genovés I Puig (who also gave the park its name) expanded the park to include fountains, a waterfall with a small lake,e and new, sometimes very rare plants. A walk through this pretty garden is almost meditative.
A quick trip to Plaza de España, the largest square in Cádiz, built in 1929, is well worth it. The fountain is decorated with mosaics, and the surrounding historic buildings are well worth seeing. Like all the sights in Cádiz, this one is within easy walking distance.
CULTURAL GRANDEZZA
My next destination is the Torre Tavira, probably the best viewpoint in Cádiz. My route takes me past the Gran Teatro Falla, a must-see for all architecture freaks. It is one of the first buildings in Spain to incorporate previously frowned upon oriental elements in the 20th century. A large part of the city's cultural life occurs in this theatre, and the famous Cádiz Carnival also begins here every year.
SPECTACULAR VIEWS FROM THE TORRE TAVIRA
I quickly take a few photos and continue past the university to the Torre Tavira, the only publicly accessible tower in Cádiz. At 45 metres high, it - like the 132 other towers - was used as an observation post for arriving and departing ships in the 18th century.
Admission price: EUR 8 per person (as of June 2024) - open daily from 10 am to 8 pm from May to September.
Since 1994, Torre Tavira has been one of the most striking sights in Cádiz - not only because of the breathtaking views but also because of its 'Cámara Oscura,' the first in Spain. I had no idea about a so-called camera obscura, which has been used for various purposes since immemorial. In the Torre Tavira, you have a 360-degree view of the entire city in a darkened room. At the same time, an employee explains the most critical points entertainingly. Of course, you should definitely go to the viewing platform beforehand and enjoy the view, including the imposing Puente de la Constitución. The Torre Tavira is the perfect starting point for sightseeing in Cádiz, as it gives you the best overview of this beautiful city with its numerous churches and pretty turrets. Surrounded by the sea, the location of Cádiz is quite extraordinary. Oh, I can't stop raving about it.
Curious fact: in the 18th century, prices for goods (including gold and silver) arriving on ships from the 'New World' were negotiated from the watchtowers using an ingenious system.
ON THE ROAD WITH A LOCAL
After all the sightseeing, a photo shoot with Fabian Lorenzo, a local photographer, is on the programme. We hit it off straight away and I learn a lot more about this extraordinary city during our tour of Cádiz. Our first stop is a sherry tasting in the Taberna Manzanilla, which has been family-owned since 1932. The price of the sherry from ancient barrels is written in chalk on the counter - marvellous. I only sip briefly, as there are still a few more locations on the programme.
COOL CAFÉS
In Calle Ancha, a pretty, car-free street with magnificent façades, Fabian shows me some of his favourite cafés (such as La Tertulia) and a very original ice cream parlour. I make a mental note of everything for my last day in Cádiz.
Let's move on. Near the cathedral, I learn more about traditional construction methods. 'The oyster stone, which consists of the remains of shells and rocks eroded by the sea, is typical of Cádiz,' explains Fabian.
Curious: The many cannons from the 17th and 18th centuries were given a new function - they were embedded in the streets as pillars!
THE ALLEY OF FORBIDDEN LOVE
Curious fact: The 'Callejón del Duende' alleyway has a special history and was once frequented by smugglers. The 'Duende,' one of the most famous leaders, gave the street its name. Legend has it that during the French attacks, one of the attackers fell in love with a local woman and hid here with her. The two were discovered, and the soldier was executed. When the woman later died, the locals claimed to have seen them. Flowers are still laid in the alley in their honour today.
We take a quick look at a typical patio, which has unfortunately been closed since the pandemic, and the Roman theatre, also closed now. I am almost overwhelmed by the exciting history and Fabian's stories.
Curious: Fabian asks me why many balcony railings in Cádiz have this curved shape that tapers downwards. Of course, I have no idea. 'Back then, the idea was to avoid people being able to see up the ladies' skirts on the balconies.' How times have changed!
TO THE SEA AGAIN
The day is drawing to a close, and of course, we must take photos by the sea. Fabian could probably go on for hours telling anecdotes about 'his' city. Why don't I stay in this historic city for a fortnight?
VAMOS A LA PLAYA
On my last day in Cádiz, I spend a few hours at Santa Maria Beach, which is about a 15-minute walk from the center. Too bad I've forgotten my swimming costume. At least I treat my feet to a dip in the refreshing sea and take a long walk along the long sandy Santa Maria beach, which stretches for kilometres to the town of San Sebastián. The Tirabuzón bar is on the beach and ideal for a snack. I enjoy the view of the old town with its cathedral again and don't feel like flying home the next day. But there's always a second time!
Tip: If you would rather spend a beach holiday in Cádiz, there are some larger beach hotels at Playa Victoria, about 3 km outside the old town.
Oh yes, the numerous rainbow flags in Cádiz were striking. The widespread tolerance is another reason to love Spain!
HOW DO YOU GET TO CÁDIZ?
The nearest international airport in the neighbouring city of Jerez de la Frontera is only about 30 minutes by car from the centre of Cádiz. If you don't hire car, you can get to Cádiz by train in an hour - or you can do as I did and visit other cities in Andalusia.
STAYING OVERNIGHT IN CÁDIZ
I spent four nights at the Hotel Soho Boutique Cádiz***. It has a very central location, ideal for exploring on foot, and friendly staff. The attractive little hotel has a small pool (well, more like a paddling pool) on the roof terrace. The beaches are a 15- —to 20-minute walk away. You can find a complete list of hotels in and around Cádiz here.
HOW IS THE WEATHER IN CÁDIZ?
June was very pleasant, with around 25 degrees C during the day and a pleasant coolness in the evening. In July and August, the temperatures often rise to over 30 degrees C. These months are undoubtedly the best for swimming in the Atlantic. Winters are also mild in Cádiz, making the city a perfect year-round destination.
So that was my trip to Andalusia. Once again, the Spanish south, with its unique cities, has inspired me and left me wanting more. If you would like to know more about Málaga, Granada, and Seville, take a look at my articles—perhaps they will inspire you to visit.
More Spain? How about the Canary Island of Fuerteventura, my favourite beach destination?
*My trip was supported by Turespaña and Turismo Andalucia. However, this has not influenced my reviews in any way."
