Málaga - my Highlights in one of the most unique Cities in Spain

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Málaga - it was about Time again!

Unbelievable, but my last trip to Málaga was almost thirty years ago. So it's time for another visit to the second-largest city in Andalusia (with approximately 580,000 inhabitants), which has spruced itself up recently.

It takes me three hours to reach the metropolis from my hometown of Düsseldorf, and the journey from the airport to the city center takes just under half an hour in a rental car. Google Maps isn't helpful when searching for a hotel and car park, as it doesn't recognise many one-way streets. After a short detour, I arrive at my hotel in the early evening, the lovely Soho Boutique Hotel Colón in the hip Soho district. 

Soho - a very cool neighbourhood

It is still almost 30 degrees Celsius in the early evening, and there is a light, very pleasant breeze from the sea. I set off for a first exploration. The street art on many of the walls in this trendy neighbourhood is striking. Antonio Banderas started his career in the Teatro del Soho before he conquered Hollywood. The cathedral, one of Málaga's major sights, is just a ten-minute walk away. A lot is happening in the streets and alleyways; in Spain, life in the early summer is mostly outside. I quickly take my first photos, enjoy a few tapas in one of the many bars, and then get some sleep. After all, I have a full programme planned for the next day.

Splendour in the Cathedral

The breakfast buffet awaits me in the Cavala restaurant, which is not part of the hotel and turns into a Michelin gourmet temple in the evening. Fortified with fresh fruit and coffee, I head to the old town's cathedral ("Santa Iglesia Catedral Basilica de la Encarnación"). I'm not really into churches, but this gigantic place of worship is well worth a visit - despite the entrance fee of EUR 6 per person (as of June 2024).

A Spanish national monument since 1931, it impresses with its vast dimensions and a height of 42 metres. The cathedral is a jewel of the Spanish Renaissance. Its construction began in the 16th century, but it was never fully completed. The ostentation and splendor so typical of the Catholic church are omnipresent. You can even climb to the roof as part of a guided tour. However, with the beautiful weather, I'm quickly drawn back outside, as there are still plenty of sights to see.

Curious fact: the cathedral is popularly known as "La Manquita" (the one-armed woman). Two towers were once designed, but they completed only one of them.

Pablo Picasso - Son of Málaga

The museum of Malaga's most famous son, Pablo Picasso, is close to the cathedral. His birthplace is a magnificent building from the 16th century. Over 200 works of art—paintings, sculptures, ceramics, and other exhibits by the world-famous artist—are on display. A queue of people has already formed outside the museum this morning—no wonder, as the house is one of the top attractions of the city of Málaga.

Good to know: Photography is not permitted in the museum. 

Open daily from 10 am to 7 pm. Admission price EUR 12 per person (access to all exhibitions - as of June 2024)

Pablo Picasso was baptised in 1881 right next door in the pretty church of Santiago, the oldest in Málaga. 

Best Views

Afterward, I leave the maze of alleyways in the historic old town to climb Monte Gibralfaro and enjoy the spectacular views of the city and harbor. In the late morning, the sun is already burning brightly, and walking up the 130-metre-high hill is a good workout for the legs and bum. Three brisk joggers overtake me on the way, while the many tourists stop here and there for a photo - presumably to recharge their batteries for the climb. Street vendors offer colourful fans. They wouldn't be bad now, but they are more for the ladies of creation. 

A cute squirrel feasts on the water that someone has put in a bowl. However, before I could take a photo, it had already disappeared again. No matter, because there are already breathtaking views of the very green city and its harbour with the inevitable cruise ships. The town hall ("ayuntamiento") of Málaga is an extraordinary eye-catcher. This magnificent, very instagrammable historical building is impossible to miss. My gaze also falls on the bullring, fortunately, used for a bloodless event on this day. At least, that's what the decorations in the arena suggest.

High up on Monte Gibralfaro sits the 14th-century castle of the same name with its well-preserved fortress walls. The climb is well worth it, especially for the spectacular views. Right next to it is an Alcazaba - a fortress similar to the Alhambra in Granada. I remember enjoying a coffee in the historic Parador de Málaga Gibralfaro nearby at the time.

Green city Málaga

Unfortunately, there is no time for this because after descending, I took a short stroll through the marvelous Jardines Pedro Luis Alonso park next to the historic town hall (one of the most beautiful I have ever seen), and I still have much to do. Palm trees, numerous plants, and colourful stone benches invite you to linger, and birds chirp. In general, Málaga is a very green city with extensive parks, which makes the walks pleasant even at higher temperatures.

Tapas in the Market Hall

I take a quick shower and changed at the hotel because Maria and Celia from Turismo Málaga are waiting for me for lunch in the historic market, the "Mercado Atarazanas." The meeting point is the impressive glass front ("Vedreria") at the back of the market hall, which dates back to 1973 and shows extracts from Málaga's eventful history. As a fan of architecture, I am fascinated by all the interesting buildings around the market hall. With all the photos I've taken this morning, my smartphone is already bursting.

The two charming ladies then take me to one of the food stands in the market hall to eat - how could it be otherwise - delicious tapas. Maria orders one delicacy after another. I try the "gambas al ajillo," small sardines (“boquerones”), deep-fried mushrooms, and, of course, my favorite, "pimientos al padrón" green peppers baked with salt. Of course, Maria and Celia tell me a lot about Málaga.

Málaga – a perfect Destination year-round

"We now have high season almost all year round," says Maria. No wonder because the winter months are also perfect for a city break in Andalusia. Maria can't stop raving about her city. "I live where everyone wants to spend their holidays; what more could you ask for? Málaga is all the rage; everyone wants to come here - and once they're here, they want to stay. I appreciate living in this paradise so much." Finally, she recommends the Balneario del Carmen for sunset (about 45 minutes outside the centre of Málaga). Unfortunately, I can't make it in the short time available, but I'll definitely be back!

Coffee, please!

After the sumptuous lunch, I need a caffeine boost. I treat myself to an espresso and a delicious cinnamon cake on the terrace of the charming little Café Malaleche. It has become very warm by now, so it's time for an extended siesta at the hotel.

Curious fact: there are many different ways to prepare coffee in Málaga. Ten of them are documented in the historic Café Central (currently closed) - depending on the amount of coffee and milk required. I don't have to deal with this as I only drink "café sólo" (without milk).

Strolling through the old Town of Málaga

In the early evening, I let myself drift through the streets of the old town. The car-free shopping street Calle Larios is worth seeing, which leads into the equally attractive Plaza de la Constitución (Constitution Square) at the upper end. The pedestrianised Calle Granada leads to the Plaza de la Merced with its obelisk, street restaurants, and magnificent jacaranda trees. This is also the birthplace of Pablo Picasso.   

Tapas and crazy Tarts

While many Spaniards still have coffee, I am drawn to the Balausta restaurant, which is in a historic palace in the old town. Here, I can enjoy tapas again. Fortunately, there is a large selection of these little delicacies, so it's not too one-sided. However, I must admit that I often return to the same appetisers if I like them. A Spanish friend once said that I'm pretty dull regarding food. What the heck? I can live with that. Buen provecho, bon appétit!

Curious fact: Malaga's typical sweet pastry is called "tortas locas", crazy tarts - a seductively creamy sin that has been popular since the 1970s. The name goes back to the song "A lo loco se vive mejor" (It's better to live crazy). - Now I have an appetite for something sweet!

The most stunning Roof TOPS in Málaga

The next morning, a few drops of rain actually fall in the city, which ranks fourth in Europe for the most days of sunshine (345 per year!). However, the sun soon comes out again. As I pass by, I notice the chic Room Mate Valeria Hotel roof terrace near the harbour, where I treat myself to a smoothie with an incomparable view. 

A short time later, I have an appointment with a Dutch friend who emigrated to the Costa del Sol years ago. Curiously, she is also waiting for me on a roof terrace in the nearby Vincci Hotel. There, I enjoy an espresso and the wonderful view of the cathedral before we make our way to the Muelle Uno harbour promenade.

Muelle Uno - one of the top Attractions in Málaga

Since its inauguration in 2011, the Muelle has become a popular attraction for locals and tourists. Numerous shops, restaurants, and cafés line the promenade with its artfully designed roof and views of the lighthouse, cruise ships, and yachts. The Muelle Uno is surrounded by parks and sports facilities, with couples dancing in the open air beside a bar.

An absolute eye-catcher is the colourful Centre Pompidou, a sort of offshoot of the famous museum in Paris and a top address for fans of modern art. Instagrammers get their money's worth here, and of course, I have my photo taken in front of the quirky building, which opened in 2015.

Vamos a la Playa

From the Muelle, you will inevitably reach Malaga's most popular beach, Playa La Malagueta. This 1,200-metre long, well-kept sandy beach is just over 20 minutes walk from the center. I also look at the traditional Gran Hotel Miramar & Spa with its magnificent gardens and imposing lobby. It is probably the best hotel in town. In the evening, a dinner in one of the many restaurants on the artfully staged Muelle Uno rounds off a wonderful and equally eventful day. 

USEFUL Tips for Málaga

In recent years, Málaga has made a name for itself as an art centre and as a destination for gourmets. In the old town, you will find pretty ice cream parlors, cafés, and everything from simple tapas bars to gourmet temples. One of the most traditional tapas restaurants is El Pimpi in the old town, where Hollywood star Antonio Banderas (a true "Malagueño") is also involved. In one of the many rooms, I spot his photo with his ex, Melanie Griffith, on a wall of celebrity photos.

The best ceramics shop in Málaga, the Alfajar (right next to the Picasso Museum), is definitely worth a visit. https://alfajar.es/en I found the exhibitions in the Galeria de Arte Benedito in the old town interesting. A real "corner shop" with typical local quality products is Zoilo, located in the Plaza de la Merced. Many tourists buy edible souvenirs here, such as ham, olive oil, fig bread, honey, or one of the region's many wines. 

The best Time to visit Málaga

Málaga is a year-round destination. Even in winter, you can enjoy very pleasant days here. I found June an excellent month to visit - still moderate temperatures and few tourists. August would be too hot and too crowded for me. 

You can find information on the temperatures in all months on this site. 

How to get to Málaga

The airport of Málaga is the third-largest in Spain. There are numerous direct flights from countries in the European Union and United Kingdom. Without a rental car, you can easily get into the city by underground or bus, and taxis are cheaper than in many countries. Málaga is connected to the most important cities in the country via the Spanish high-speed rail network (AVE).

I spent four nights at the aforementioned Soho Boutique Hotel Colón, which I really liked. Central location, attractive, modern furnishings, and attentive staff. The Gran Hotel Miramar & Spa is the best address for the most discerning travellers. In addition to all the luxury, this traditional hotel impresses with its location close to the beach. For those who like it more modern and want to be in the centre of the action, Room Mate Valeria is the place to be. Otherwise, there are of course, plenty of boutique and luxury hotels; you may wish to have a look at this site. 

On the Road in Málaga

I didn't touch my rental car during my stay and I explored all the sights described on foot. Unfortunately, the car parks are not cheap (from EUR 17 per day - as of June 2024). Since 2014, Málaga has had a modern metro network with two lines. You should plan at least two days for the city, especially as you can combine sightseeing with a beach holiday. 

Suppose you are staying in the city for a longer period, there are numerous day trips available, for example, to the typical Andalusian villages of Nerja and Ronda. Málaga has completely captivated me—it is a great combination of architecture, beach, and culture. Thinking about the delicious tapas immediately whets my appetite again. - After Málaga, I travelled on to the magnificent city of Granada and then to two more gems, Seville and Cádiz. 

*My trip was supported by Turespaña and Turismo Andalucia which has in no way influenced my evaluations.*