*Promotion*
ABOVE THE ROOFS OF TUNIS
After Sidi Bou Said and Hammamet, Tunis is the last stop on my trip to Tunisia this year. I can hardly wait to check into the Dar El Jeld Hotel & Spa in the Medina of Tunis. I arrive at the hotel early and have to wait a while for my room. I use the time for a delicious smoothie on the roof terrace. On my way to the lift, I get a first impression of the many rooms in the hotel that are worth seeing, but more on that later. On the chic roof terrace on the 5th floor, I flop down on a super comfy sofa and enjoy the view over Tunis in spring-like temperatures in February. The old town lies at my feet, and my gaze wanders to the Hotel Africa on Avenue Bourguiba, Tunis's main street.
SUITE NO. 24 - A DREAM
A short time later, my suite no. 24 is ready for me to move into. The charming receptionist escorts me into the rooms, the size of which I have to get used to. There is a bedroom, two bathrooms, a living room with a work area, and a furnished balcony with a view of the green inner courtyard—just "wow"!
I like the modern yet cosy furnishings with Tunisian elements. The flat screen is hidden behind ornate white sliding doors, a great idea. The room service menu can be scanned using a QR code to save paper. Of course, the espresso machine is present, and I am served dates and oranges in the late afternoon. I already regret that I will only be spending one night here - all the more reason to savour it all.
DESIGN, ART, AND THE SCENT OF ORANGE BLOSSOM
Before I explore the Medina again, I look at all the rooms with their art and design. Columns, lots of marble, arches, ceramics, glass, and patios, old and new, in perfect harmony. The scent of orange blossom fills the air in this oasis of calm away from the hustle and bustle of the city. The vast crystal chandelier is striking, and pastries and coffee are available for self-service in an oriental-style room. What an extraordinary, fantastic place! This short video gives you a little insight into the world of the Dar El Jeld Hotel & Spa.
The history of Dar El Jeld dates back to the 18th century. Incidentally, the name means "house of leather," and there used to be a tannery. In the 1930s, the Abdelkefi family acquired this small palace, which was later converted from a residence into a luxurious boutique hotel with just 16 suites. Today, Dar El Jeld is considered one of the best hotels in Tunisia—partly because of its gastronomy, which I will discuss later. Tunisian celebrities come and go here.
Off to the Medina of Tunis
After all the amazement at the Dar El Jeld Hotel & Spa, the Medina of Tunis, this labyrinth of alleyways that has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979. The old town dates back to the 7th century and is considered one of the largest and best preserved in North Africa.
Around 100,000 people live in this microcosm, surrounded by imposing historic gates. People are hammering, welding and sewing everywhere. The souks are organised according to economic sectors, with perfume, shoe and fabric merchants having their own alleys. A structured walk is impossible due to the many winding alleyways; just let yourself drift and be fascinated by the colorful hustle and bustle in the souks. A three-hour guided tours led by a historian takes place on Saturdays from 9.45 am, meeting point is the Dar El Jeld Restaurant (bookings via the hotel reception).
Espresso with a view
The beautiful spring weather draws me back to Café Panorama with its unrivaled view. Through a carpet shop, I climb numerous stairs to the roof terrace next to the Zitouna Mosque, the largest in Tunis. Young couples hold hands and enjoy their mint tea. I order an espresso, but to my disappointment, Panorama has no snacks. No matter; I enjoy a caffeine boost and the warming rays of sunshine.
Cool cafés in the Medina
My subsequent search for a light lunch has yet to be successful. Ultimately, I end up at the tiny Chez Haroun near the hotel, where I can't resist the fruit tarts. I actually wanted to significantly reduce my sugar intake, but tomorrow is another day. Apart from a small swing decorated with flowers, there is no seating at Chez Haroun, which is more than enough for an Instagram photo. I notice a few "Instagram spots" in the cafés, and this trend doesn't stop at the Medina in Tunis either.
Colourful spa in the hotel
Back at the Dar Jeld, I look at the oriental, subtly illuminated spa, which, with its hammam, cultivates the ancient Tunisian tradition of body care and well-being. A 45-minute treatment in the hammam costs 100 TDN (as of February 2024), while a 30-minute massage costs from 100 TDN.
CULINARY DELIGHTS AT DAR EL JELD HOTEL & SPA
We quickly head to the roof terrace at sunset for a few photos. Unfortunately, it's getting a little too chilly for dinner in the open air - after all, it's only February. So I dine with a local friend in the restaurant, which offers local and international cuisine. Vegetarians have a few options, but it's a little more difficult for vegans. The Dar El Jeld restaurant opposite the hotel is said to be different. It is considered one of the best in Tunisia. Due to the brevity of my stay, I could not try out this elegant, romantic restaurant. Still, the reviews on the usual portals are auspicious.
BREAKFAST WITH FRESH STRAWBERRIES AND CHAMPAGNE
Breakfast is served in the Rooftop Bar and Restaurant, where a wonderful buffet awaits me. To my delight, there are fresh strawberries, which are already being harvested on Cap Bon at this time of year. Champagne is also already waiting, but I leave it at fresh orange juice.
WORTH SEEING: CAFÉ EL M'RABET
I have to use the remaining time in Tunis to change money to pay for my taxi to the airport. Most taxis don't accept credit cards, and I cannot change money in the hotel. So the friendly concierge guides me through the maze of alleeyways to a bank. On the way back, I have time to look at the M' Rabet Café, which is well worth a visit. With a heavy heart, I then make may way to Tunis Carthage Airport in bright sunshine. A wonderful week is behind me.
SIGHTS IN TUNIS
In addition to the Medina, you should not miss the famous Bardo Museum, the world's most important collection of Roman mosaics. It is located around 4 km outside the centre of Tunis and is easy to reach by streetcar. On three floors, you get a historical overview of the history of Tunisia, from the Punic, Greek, Roman, early Christian and Arab eras, with a focus on Roman art. I took a close look at the Bardo Museum in 2019 and was impressed. The museum is open daily except Mondays from 9 am to 5 pm (June to mid September) and from 9.30 to 4.30 pm (mid September to the end of May). Admission costs 13 TDN per person (as of March 2024).
STROLL ALONG AVENUE BOURGUIBA
A stroll along Avenue Bourguiba, the main street in Tunis, is a must. Named after the former president of Tunisia, you will find numerous buildings from the French colonial era, shops, and street cafés along its 1.2 kilometers, of which the Opéra Café next to the 19th century Théatre Municipal is undoubtedly the most beautiful. Also worth seeing is the cathedral, built in the 19th century. Other landmarks include the Hotel Africa in an unmissable tower block and the "Big Ben of Tunis", a clock tower at the end of the Mile.
POSH BERGES DU LAC NEIGHBOURHOOD
The chic Berges du Lac, located north of downtown Tunis, is the meeting place for the rich and famous and THE contrast to the Medina. Numerous cafés and restaurants, some located directly on the lake, attract wealthy Tunisians.
Tunis's beaches are around 30 minutes drive from the centre. La Marsa and especially Gammarth are popular seaside resorts with good infrastructure. There is also a small sandy beach in Sidi Bou Said.
DON'T MISS: CARTHAGE AND SIDI BOU SAID
The old ruined city of Carthage, right by the sea, and the artists' village of Sidi Bou Said, considered the most beautiful in Tunisia, are also worth a visit. In Sidi Bou Said, I stayed in the unique Maison Dedine, a "Small Luxury Hotel of the World." Look at my article to discover this unique hideaway. Both places can be reached in around 30 minutes by taxi or by train from the centre of Tunis. The train journey is inexpensive, but the standard is different from European standards.
DAR EL JELD HOTEL & SPA - MY SUMMARY
Perfect for a city holiday in Tunis, it is the ideal base for exploring the Medina and for excursions to the sights in and outside the city. Modern design has been harmoniously combined with a Tunisian ambiance—it is one of the most beautiful boutique hotels I have ever seen. Prices start at approximately 140 EUR per room in the off season, breakfast included.
PRACTICAL TIPS
I flew from Düsseldorf to Tunis with Tunisair in just over two hours. A passport valid for at least six months is required to enter Tunisia. You can get Tunisian dinars at the airport, banks, exchange offices, and hotels. Credit cards are accepted in many hotels and in some restaurants and shops. Taxis are very cheap in Tunisia. Most have a taximeter, so the best way to order one is via the hotel or an app. The journey from Tunis Carthage Airport to the Dar El Jeld Hotel & Spa takes around 20 minutes - depending on traffic - and costs around 30 TDN (approx. 9 EUR, as of February 2024).
THE BEST TIME TO TRAVEL TO TUNISIA
For me, autumn, winter, and spring, with their mild climate, are the ideal times to visit Tunisia. This time is particularly suitable for sightseeing, less for swimming in the sea. However, sunbathing is possible on many days and is very pleasant. In the summer, the thermometer often climbs to over 40 degrees C, and it only cools down a little at night.
*My trip was supported by Dar El Jeld Hotel & Spa and Discover Tunisia. However, this has in no way influenced my ratings."
My photos were taken by Feres Harbaoui, a talented young photograper in Tunis.
Are you also interested in Hammamet, probably Tunisia's oldest seaside resort? Then, you may wish to take a look at my hotel tip.