Maison Dedine - casual Luxury in Sidi Bou Said

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Off to Tunis

It's the beginning of February, and my hometown of Düsseldorf is about to celebrate carnival. For me, that means escaping the crowds and travelling to Tunisia! Tunisair takes me to Tunis in just over two hours, and from there, I take a taxi (approx. 30 minutes, 40 TDN) to Sidi Bou Said, the most beautiful village in the country.

A luxury Boutique Hotel second to none

My anticipation for the Maison Dedine, a member of the "Small Luxury Hotels of the World," is growing. I reach my destination in the evening. Hadil and Jihen are already waiting to show me a real gem. Maison Dedine, which opened in June 2019 and has just five rooms, is more of a luxurious guest villa than a hotel. In 2022, it was recognized as the best boutique hotel in Africa at the World Luxury Hotel Awards. I'll say it straight away: this extraordinary hideaway is high on my list of favourite hotels.

The formerly private house belongs to the Sinaoui family, whose history is documented by photos at the entrance to Maison Dedine. The architect Sandra Osmani has created a true masterpiece with the conversion into a boutique hotel, with old and new elements forming a perfect symbiosis. 

Perfect Location by the Sea

Even before unpacking, I look at the rooms and need to figure out where to look first. Design and art wherever you look, I can see the infinity pool through the large windows and the Mediterranean Sea just beyond. Maison Dedine is the only hotel in Sidi Bou Said located directly by the sea.

My 27 square metre comfort room is called Hallou (like all rooms, named after a family member) and impresses with a successful mix of styles. Above the bed hangs a black-and-white photograph by local photographer Sadri Benmlouka, whose avant-garde works can be admired throughout the hotel.

I particularly like the gold-decorated mirror in the bathroom, framed by two unusual marble lamps. Of course, the obligatory Nespresso machine is also available, which will delight coffee lovers. You can choose the pillows in the bed - hypoallergenic and antibacterial, anti-stress, or a "gold pillow" that molds perfectly to the shape of your head. No wonder I sleep wonderfully. Apart from the gentle lapping of the sea directly below my room, it is as quiet as a mouse. Moreover, the room can be darkened entirely, essential for a restful night's sleep. Bonne nuit, good night!

Heavenly Breakfast

I can already guess what awaits me for breakfast. Numerous delicacies are laid out on a long mahogany table. I discuss this with Monica, a frequent Brazilian traveler living in the USA. We talk about everything, including politics. However, given the relaxed atmosphere at Maison Dedine overlooking the sea, we prefer more pleasant topics. Monica wants to celebrate her milestone birthday with friends at Maison Dedine next year - a good idea!

Meanwhile, Ons and Yassine take care of my physical well-being. I need to figure out where to start with all the delicacies. Tunisian specialties served on trays for breakfast - that's something completely different. I savour b'sissa, a mountain dish of roasted wheat, lentils, chickpeas, and spices. The infernally hot Harissa chili paste is a must and should be used with care. If you have a sweet tooth, there is madmouja, puff pastry with honey, dates, and dried fruit. It's lovely that this dessert is entirely sugar-free - I try to avoid sugar as much as possible. A selection of bread, fruit, patisserie, cheese, sausage, and delicious crêpes rounds off the offer. Oh yes, honey in silver bowls is available in four flavours (thyme, orange, eucalyptus, maple syrup) - enough raving, right?

On the second morning, I am all alone. The charming Ons has specially prepared a shakshouka for me, a dish with spicy tomatoes, cracked eggs, fresh herbs, and an assida (flour puree); so delicious! Bossa nova music plays while the sun shines through the high windows. I learned that the chic crockery was created especially for Maison Dedine - every detail has been thought through. Saha - bon appétit!

Lunch or dinner needs to be ordered 48 hours in advance. Free alcoholic drinks are available in one of the living rooms. In Sidi Bou Said, there are numerous options for culinary delights - from snack bars to luxury restaurants. But more on that later.

Perfect Places to chill

There is still so much to see in the Maison before I look at the surroundings. I particularly like the blue sofa in the "Cheminée" living room, not to mention the breathtaking view of the sea. It's worth taking a look through the gilded telescope! The "Méditerranée" living room consists of several units, mainly with a view of the infinity pool, the sea, and lots of designs by local artists.

Antique furniture decorated with mother-of-pearl is an extraordinary eye-catcher. If only I had more time - I would love to read all the illustrated books (film, art, architecture, fashion, Tunisian history). But at some point on this sunny day, you also want to go outside, perhaps enjoy a cup of tea by the pool, and take a look at the roof terrace overlooking the Bay of Tunis. Have a look at my little video clip.

A lovely Beach and a charming Village

A pretty marina with a Tunisian café is just a few minutes walk from Maison Dedine, with a sandy bay behind it. Local boys play football, and fruit is sold at a mobile kiosk. "Come back tomorrow; we'll have strawberries, too," the seller calls out. Will do!

Sidi Bou Said is calling!

On the other side, the road leads to the center of Sidi Bou Said - not far, but the climb is challenging. However, you are rewarded with breathtaking Mediterranean and bay views. Since the famous painters Macke, Klee, and Mouillère travelled here, Sidi Bou Said has been considered an artist's mecca. Galleries and, of course, the usual tourist shops are everywhere. Even in February, plenty is going on in this charming little town. Comfortable shoes are recommended, as some of the paths are steeply uphill.

It is essential to take a break in one of the well-known cafés, which impress less with their comfort than with their Tunisian ambiance and magnificent views. Every travel guide mentions the Café des Délices and the incredibly historic Café des Nattes. In the latter, the waiter proudly showed me a historical German newspaper article about Klee and Macke's visit before serving me sweet treats with my coffee. I enjoyed the view of the white houses with the blue doors.

Culinary Delights in Sidi Bou Said

The Blu Blu Sidi Bou at the entrance to the town is undoubtedly a good choice for lunch - a good selection of Tunisian and international dishes and a terrace with comfortable lounge furniture. In the evening, it can be more exclusive. On the recommendation of the hotel staff, I treat myself to a dinner at Dar Zarrouk and another at Villa Bleue. Both are expensive by Tunisian standards, but the prices are significantly lower than in Europe.

In this article, you can find information on other sights in Sidi Bou Said. 

Practical tips for your Trip to Sidi Bou Said

The Maison Dedine is an adults-only hotel - ideal for those who want to spend a quiet holiday in luxurious surroundings. The clientele is international. Prices start at EUR 280 per night, and rooms in low season, breakfast, and WiFi are included. There are a few stairs in the hotel, but no lift. For an evening visit to the centre of Sidi Bou Said, I recommend a taxi for less than 10 TDN (approx. 3 EUR - as of February 2024) per trip. There is an inexpensive train connection to Tunis, but the comfort differs from European trains. Most taxis have a taximeter, so the best way to order one is via the hotel or an app. Taxis do not travel between larger cities. For example, I travelled from Tunis to Hammamet by bus ("classe confort") for 6 TDN (approx. 2 EUR - as of February 2024) in just under 90 minutes.

A passport valid for at least six months is required to enter Tunisia. You can get Tunisian dinars at the airport, banks, exchange offices, and hotels. Credit cards are accepted in hotels and in some restaurants and shops. 

Best Time to Travel to Sidi Bou Said

For me, winter and spring, with their mild climate, are the ideal times to visit Tunisia. This time is particularly suitable for sightseeing, less for swimming in the sea. However, sunbathing is possible on many days and is very pleasant. In the summer, the thermometer often climbs to over 40 degrees C and only cools down a little at night. 

A stay in Sidi Bou Said should be combined with visits to historic Carthage and the capital, Tunis, with its lively old town (medina), for which I also compiled a few tips years ago.

For me, this trip continued to a design hotel in Hammamet, look at my article about La Badira. 

My trip was supported by Maison Dedine and Discover Tunisia. This has in no way influenced my evaluations of the hotels and the island.

The photos of myself were taken by Feres Harbaoui, a young local photographer.