LA BADIRA - MY HOTEL TIP FOR THE TUNISIAN RESORT OF HAMMAMET

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From Tunis to Hammamet

After three beautiful days in Sidi Bou Said, my journey continues to Hammamet, one of Tunisia's oldest and most famous places, about 70 kilometres south of Tunis. I took the "Classe Confort" bus from Tunis because taxis are not allowed to travel between larger towns. Of course, I have to take a photo of the two cats snuggled up on a chair in all the hustle and bustle at the bus station. The one-and-a-half-hour journey past orange and olive groves and rugged cliffs cost me 5,500 TDN (approx. 1.63 EUR - as of February 2024). You can't expect much comfort even in this favoured class, but what the heck. I was the only tourist on the bus, which I always liked. At the bus station in Tunis, a local lady noticed my searching eyes. She spontaneously explained to me where the bus platform was. In general, I have had good experiences with the helpfulness of Tunisians - one of the many reasons I have taken this country to heart.

What an Entrance at La Badira

The bus stops in the centre of Hammamet, next to the old town. A taxi takes me to the luxury hotel La Badira ("Full Moon"), the only Tunisian member of the "Leading Hotels of the World", in just a few minutes and at a bargain price. The grand entrance alone is one of the highlights of this adults-only hotel.  A large door opens after passing through a pretty corridor with a water basin and orange trees, leading into a dark, almost mysterious area with art elements. Seconds later, another automatic door opens, and you find yourself in the light-flooded, impressively designed lobby of La Badira. Have a look at my short video clip.

Excellent stylistic elements, chic furniture, and high windows allow the light from La Badira, located directly by the sea, to fall into almost every corner. Modern design has been skilfully combined with Tunisian elements. One eye-catcher is a pretty brass incense burner.

In bed with sea view

A friendly concierge accompanies me to my suite. Here, too, design has been combined with Tunisian elements. White and a light beige are the dominant colours, and I notice a pretty calligraphy on the wall. "You have a direct view of the sea from your bed," the friendly hotel employee explains. I really like the small work area, from which I also have a view of the Mediterranean. It whets my appetite for three eventful days in Hammamet.

Finally by the Sea

I treat myself to a sandwich in the chic lobby bar. I am pleased to see several dishes for vegetarians and vegans - not necessarily a matter of course in Tunisia. The attentive waiter even asks about allergies, which, fortunately, I don't have. After the culinary delights, I first had to head towards the sea, which I reached through a very well-kept garden with palm trees. On the horizon, gentle mountains frame the bay; what a beautiful view. In February, the sun occasionally peeks through the sky, and I spot two horse riders on the deserted beach. It's a little too chilly for the two chic outdoor pools at this time of year, but there is an indoor pool with a sea view for guests in the spa.

Dinner at "Kamilah"

I try out one of the two à la carte restaurants in the evening. The cuisine at "Kamilah" is international and Mediterranean, while "Adra" offers Tunisian specialties. I opt for the "Kamila," a beautifully designed modern restaurant with a terrace. On this evening, most of the guests are probably wealthy Tunisians. I notice a pretty, very provocatively dressed young Tunisian woman at the table next to an elegant older local lady with a headscarf. I also really like the naturalness of different clothing in Tunisia. The "Kamilah" has a good selection of international wines, so I favoured a local drop. Wine growing is not necessarily a matter of course for a country characterized by Islam. Still, it once again proves Tunisia's (relative) tolerance.

Breakfast with Mohamed

The breakfast meets La Badira's high standards. I bravely sit on the terrace when it's still chilly outside - it's OK with a jacket. Waiter Mohamed looks after me like a father and insists on bringing me a third espresso and an omelet. However, I am well served with plenty of fruit, bread, cheese and honey. I notice an almost futuristic-looking device. Mohamed explains that it filters drinking water from rainwater and serves me a glass immediately. What a great idea! The butter at La Badira is not offered in plastic packaging but on plates. You probably wouldn't believe the amount of plastic this saves - commendable.

Spa or Excursion?

I quickly look at the chic, oriental-inspired spa, where I am particularly impressed by the "floating bed." On this soft lounger, you float in the water without getting wet and treat your body to some beautiful relaxation. The price list includes 16 therapies, such as Lomi Lomi, Thai massages, and Ayurvedic treatments. On this sunny day, however, I prefer to explore outside - after all, I don't have that much time.

Rendezvous with the "Berber Queen"

Khouloud, the charming guest relations manager, gives me tips for the rest of my time in Hammamet. I take a 15-minute walk to the Berber Queen café, which only opened in January 2024. The modern furnishings go wonderfully with the oriental-inspired wall decorations. In the style of modern Instagram cafés, a swing is decorated with artificial flowers in front of the café's glowing name. I get a considerable salad created entirely to my liking and chat animatedly with the friendly owners. This is an excellent tip for a coffee or snack outside the hotel.

Let's have coffee at Sidi Bouhdid

I then take a taxi to the centre of Hammamet for 10 TDN (less than 3 EUR as of February 2024). I have my Sunday coffee in the traditional Sidi Bouhdid café, which is probably mentioned in every travel guide. Located directly between the beach promenade and the medina, you can savour the Tunisian ambiance on cushions while smoking shisha. I was partially convinced by the cakes served in glasses, but the atmosphere certainly was.

Off to the medina in Hammamet

From Sidi Bouhdid, you can stroll along the beach promenade before plunging into the hustle and bustle of the old town. It only takes a few minutes before the first "city guide" offers his services. A favourite trick is to claim that the self-appointed tour guide works in your hotel. I thankfully decline, and that's usually the end of it.

The medina, which is pretty empty this Sunday and surrounded by walls dating back to the 15th century, is a complete delight. It goes from one narrow alley to the next, a veritable labyrinth. I can't get enough of the many doors with their ornaments - white, yellow, bright blue. I am still determining how many photos I took that afternoon.

Of course, the carpets, ceramics, and leather goods typical of Tunisia are on sale in the numerous shops. The two mosques from the 15th and 18th centuries are also worth seeing, although they are not accessible to non-Muslims. They are always an excellent photo opportunity. You have a fantastic view over the medina and the beach from the city wall, especially at sunset.

Dinner at "Chez Achour"

On Khouloud's recommendation, I would like to dine at Chez Achour. This restaurant is right in the centre, but somewhat hidden. A Tunisian, whom I ask for directions, accompanies me to the restaurant in five minutes and wishes me "bon appétit". This is another excellent example of the already mentioned helpfulness of Tunisians. Chez Achour has a marvelous garden, for which it is too fresh on this February evening. So I savour pasta inside the elegant restaurant with its Tunisian ambiance.

The most beautiful suites at La Badira

Before I set off for the neighboring town of Nabeul the next day, I ask floor manager Abdallah to show me some of the impressive suites named after famous personalities. "Claudia Cardinale" is the most beautiful one, a tribute to the Tunisian-born Italian film star of the 60s and 70s.

A 20-minute taxi ride takes me to Nabeul, the pottery and ceramic art centre. The partly covered market in this small town is correspondingly colourful. However, I don't like it as much as Hammamet.

VISIT TO THE INTERNATIONAL CULTURAL CENTRE

Finally, there is a visit to the International Cultural Centre, the "Centre Culturel," a small oasis right by the sea, about 20 minutes by foot from the center of Hammamet. Admission only costs 5 TDN (approx. 1.50 EUR - as of February 2024).

The park leads to Villa Sebastian, built by a wealthy Romanian in the 1920s and quickly became a meeting place for artists. Paul Klee and André Gide were here. Winston Churchill is said to have edited part of his memoirs here.The rooms still contain the furniture from that era, and there was a swimming pool in the courtyard for the elite guests. I am served an orange juice on the terrace before walking along a narrow path framed by modern art to the open theatre, reminiscent of a Roman arena. The Hammamet International Festival of Music and Drama takes place here every summer.

MY CONCLUSION

I like Hammamet's beautiful sandy beaches, the lively centre, and the medina. La Badira, with its 130 suites, is particularly suitable for guests who want to spend a quiet holiday without children in a modern, luxurious ambiance. In addition to an exquisite spa, La Badira offers numerous sports facilities such as fitness, horse riding, diving, tennis, and yoga. While summer is ideal for swimming, spring, autumn, and winter are ideal for exploring Hammamet and the surrounding area. La Badira can be booked through several tour operators or on the hotel website. 

SUSTAINABILITY AT LA BADIRA

La Badira has been certified as a sustainable hotel by an independent organisation. Among other things, the hotel has implemented an energy and environmental management system. It has a food waste policy that includes education, prevention, reduction, recycling, and disposal of food waste.

HOW DO I GET TO HAMMAMET?

Enfidha Hammamet Airport is 48 km from the city center and can be reached by taxi or transfer bus in approx. 30 minutes. Tunis International Airport is approx. 75 km away (approx. one hour's drive).

A passport valid for at least six months is required to enter Tunisia. You can get Tunisian dinars at the airport, banks, exchange offices, and hotels. Credit cards are accepted in hotels and in some restaurants and shops.

THE BEST TIME TO TRAVEL TO HAMMAMET

For me, autumn, winter, and spring, with their mild climate, are the ideal times to visit Tunisia. This time is particularly suitable for sightseeing, less for swimming in the sea. However, sunbathing is possible on many days and is very pleasant. In the summer, the thermometer often climbs to over 40 degrees C and only cools down a little at night.

NOT TO BE MISSED!

From Hammamet, you should take a trip to Tunis, Carthage, and Sidi Bou Said - it's worth it! I traveled back to Tunis to one of the most beautiful boutique hotels in the city. I will report on this in my next article.

*This trip was supported by Discover Tunisia and the Hotel La Badira, which did not influence my ratings in any way.*