Dar Souad in La Marsa - a hidden Gem in the Gulf of Tunis

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Off to Tunisia - once again!

It's the end of February, and the carnival will begin in the Rhineland. This means another escape from confetti, revelers, and crowds. I want some warmth and, above all, no carnival hustle and bustle. Southern Europe is, therefore, out of the question, so once again, it's off to Tunisia!

The Gulf of Tunis remains my favourite region in this small North African country. I chose to stay at the Dar Souad in La Marsa, a small 'Hôtel de Charme' with just ten rooms and suites. To say it straight away: It was a perfect choice!

The journey from Tunis Carthage airport takes about 20 minutes. The Dar Souad is located on an inconspicuous side street in the seaside resort of La Marsa. Behind the typical Tunisian door lies a marvelous gem. The recently renovated riad sits in a building dating back to the 19th century. The historic architecture combines perfectly with modern amenities, making your stay a unique experience. 

Modern Tunisian Feeling

The jewel in the crown of this little hideaway is the lovingly landscaped garden with a mini pool, comfortable furniture, and decorations of all kinds. The young, very thoughtful owner, Feriel Turki, has attached great importance to collaborating with Tunisian artists. I immediately notice the large espresso machine, which is sheltered under a roof on a large outdoor table.

Unfortunately, the suites were already full due to my last-minute reservation, but I also feel comfortable in the room with the pretty name Cherifa. The bed, framed by ornaments, is on a small platform, so I can only start my night's sleep after a little exercise. That's something completely different; I like it!

The walls are covered with paintings by a local artist, reminding me of Modigliani's works. The windows look out directly onto the pool and garden, and soft music gently wakes me up in the morning. It's time for breakfast, the most important meal of the day for me!

Breakfast al fresco

With a light jacket, you can have breakfast on the covered terrace at the end of February - marvellous!
Dorcasse, one of six extremely friendly hôtel employees, brings me all kinds of delicacies on a tray, beautifully draped in small bowls. Dates and other fresh fruit, homemade yogurt with granola, delicious jam, Tunisian specialties such as shakshouka (a pan-fried dish with vegetables and herbs), and Malawi, the tasty Tunisian flatbread, accompanied by fresh orange juice and a delicious espresso. It's so nice not to stand at a buffet with other guests and enjoy the view of the pretty garden. 

You can also dine at Dar Souad in the evening (it's best to book in advance). 

Animal Companions at Dar Souad

The lovely pet dog and Kiara, the pretty cat with a bushy tail, often keep me company without being intrusive. Days later, however, the cute Kiara shows her other face. At first, she plays with my room key hanging from a frayed piece of fabric. I provoke her a little too much, and in return, the little beast bites and scratches me and then jumps on my back. Did the cat friend deserve that? I should have behaved more calmly, but it's okay, sweet Kiara.

Endless beach in La Marsa

It's a good 15-minute walk to the centre of La Marsa and the Corniche, the promenade with its cafés and restaurants. Just behind it is the long sandy beach where the locals play volleyball. In summer, various water sports are available here. Here and there, I notice plastic bags—Tunisia still has some catching up to do in terms of environmental protection (but not only Tunisia). 

Tip: Stroll along the beach past the chic villas of wealthy Tunisians to Gammarth (20 to 30 minutes) and treat yourself to a coffee or drink in the luxurious, spacious Mövenpick Hôtel. I spent a few days here years ago and loved it.

Favourite spots in La Marsa

The selection of cafés and restaurants in La Marsa is good. However, much of my stay fell during the Islamic fasting month of Ramadan. Some cafés are closed entirely during this time, and many restaurants are only open in the evening.

My favourite place for lunch and coffee was Café Zephyr, in the small shopping centre of the same name in the middle of La Marsa. From the large roof terrace, you have a wonderful view of the sea. On the second day, the waiter greeted me with a handshake. 

At 'À mi Chemin' right next door, you can enjoy Tunisian and international delicacies and the best views from the terrace, which is very popular with the locals.

Chilling at Studio Fan

Suppose you're looking for a calm atmosphere. In that case, I recommend Studio Fan in the Agora cinema, just a five-minute walk from Dar Souad. It has a young, hip crowd (I've pushed the average age up quite a bit), nice staff in baggy trousers and caps, and delicious, healthy (including vegan) snacks and smoothies. In the evenings, a DJ plays music here. In short, it's a pub like in Berlin or London. On the first floor there is a chic concept store with Tunisian products (fashion, design and all kinds of odds and ends).

Typically Tunisian

Contrasting this is Safsaf in the centre (right next to the mosque), a caravanserai that has been transformed into a Moorish café. Here, you can enjoy the inevitable mint tea (usually heavily sweetened) and savoury or sweet Tunisian street food. The Safsaf is a beautiful photo opportunity.

In the evening, the 'Au Bon Vieux Temps', right next to the small railway station, is a good choice. It has a relaxed atmosphere, Italian food, live music, and—yes—alcohol is also served here during Ramadan. The prices are very moderate, as they are almost everywhere in Tunisia.

Not to miss - excursions in the surroundings

The Dar Souad is a perfect starting point for excursions into the spectacular surroundings, which you should not miss:

Sidi Bou Said

Situated on a rock, this artist's village is considered the most beautiful in Tunisia. It is only a few minutes' drive from La Marsa. The blue and white houses and breathtaking views of the Mediterranean and the bay have already enchanted the famous painters Macke and Klee. The French Baron d' Erlanger ensured the listing of the village as a historical monument in 1915.

Here you will find my tips for Sidi Bou Said.

Carthage

This town was the capital of Tunisia in ancient times before it was destroyed by the Romans and rebuilt in the 1st century BC. The archaeological site of Carthage was added to the World Heritage List in 1979 and is considered one of the most famous sights in Tunisia. 

Tunis

Tunisia's capital, a mixture of Orient and Occident with over one million inhabitants, is one of the oldest cities in the Mediterranean. The historic old town (medina) with its winding alleyways dates back to the 7th century. It is home to magnificent palaces, mosques, madrasas (Koran schools), and mausoleums. In 1979, the Medina of Tunis was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Strolling through the bazaars with their numerous shops and some very typical cafés is an absolute must.

Of course, a stroll along the Avenue Bourguiba boulevard is also part of a visit to Tunis. A tiny hint of Paris, lots of street cafés and the Big Ben of Tunis! Another attraction is the impressive Saint Vincent de Paul Cathedral, a heritage of the French Colonial period. 

You can find my hotel recommendation for Tunis here. 

In this article I give you more tips for Tunis and Carthage. 

Not to be missed: The Bardo Museum

The National Museum of Bardo is the largest archaeological museum in Tunisia and is located around 4 km west of the city centre. It is located in an imposing 19th century palace and houses the world's most important collection of Roman mosaics. Here you get a wonderful insight into the very varied history of Tunisia. For me, it is one of the most beautiful museums I have ever visited.

PRACTICAL TIPS FOR TUNISIA

I flew from Düsseldorf to Tunis in just over two hours with Tunisair. There are also direct connections from Brussels, London, Paris, Rome, and other major European cities, as well as from Montreal. A passport valid for at least six months is required to enter Tunisia. You can get Tunisian dinars at the airport, banks, exchange offices, and hotels. Credit cards are accepted in many hotels and in some restaurants and shops. Taxis are very cheap in Tunisia. Tip: Download the BOLT app. The price shows up directly, and you can communicate with the driver in German or English. The journey from Tunis Carthage Airport to Dar Souad takes around 20 minutes - depending on traffic - and costs around 30 TDN (approx. 9 EUR, as of March 2025). Please note that you can only pay with cash.

There is also a train connection from Tunis to La Marsa. The TGM train (not comfortable!) runs approximately every five minutes from Tunis Marine Station at the end of Avenue Bourguiba. The journey takes a good 30 minutes and is very cheap.

THE BEST TIME TO TRAVEL TO TUNISIA

For me, autumn, winter, and spring, with their mild climate, are the ideal times to visit Tunisia. This time is particularly suitable for sightseeing, less for swimming in the sea. However, sunbathing is possible on many days and is very pleasant. In the summer, the thermometer often climbs to over 40 degrees C and only cools down a little at night. Expect restrictions during the Islamic fasting month of Ramadan. Muslims fast between sunrise and sunset. In 2025, Ramadan began on 1 March and ended at the end of March with the start of Eid. The Islamic calendar determines the start of the fasting month, which is why Ramadan differs yearly. In the coming years, Ramadan will start earlier and earlier - in 2026, for example, the fasting period will begin on 18 February.

*I paid for my entire trip myself.*