Extend the Summer in Cyprus

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Cyprus in October - pure summer feeling

October is a perfect month for me to travel. It's less hot and crowded in southern Europe than it is in the height of summer. This time is ideal for exploring and active holidays. So let's go to Cyprus! The third largest island in the Mediterranean, on the edge of Europe, impresses with its fusion of 11,000 years of history with a modern lifestyle, breathtaking beaches, and picturesque mountain villages. My trip will take me to the western part of the island, focussing on Paphos (also known as Pafos), the fourth largest city on the island.

Driving on the left

Unfortunately, there are no more flights from Düsseldorf to Pafos at the end of October, so I must use Larnaca airport. This means a two-hour drive (the left-hand traffic takes some getting used to), which first takes me to Neo Chorio, past the imposing skyscrapers in Limassol (Lemesos). But more on that later. The chic luxury hotel Anassa is my first holiday home. I will write a detailed report on the hotels I visited.

Into the sea

It's getting late, so I save my explorations for the next day when bright sunshine and 28 degrees Celsius await me. Before the planned sightseeing, I must swim a lap in the well-tempered, clear Mediterranean Sea. I would love to stay in the water for hours, surrounded by rugged rocks and rolling green hills. I soak up some sun on the coarse sandy beach before setting off.

Cyprus - the island of the gods

Did you know that the legendary Aphrodite, the Greek goddess of love and beauty, is said to have once emerged from the sea in Cyprus? The remains of her temple can be found in the village of Kouklia. I am drawn to her bathing spot on the wild and romantic Akamas peninsula, just a few minutes drive from the village of Latchi. According to legend, a small rocky grotto shaded by the leaves of a fig tree was her favourite place for a refreshing dip.

She also fell in love with the beautiful Adonis here, even though the lady was married. Well, where love falls. This romantic spot is perfect for imagining the story before setting off on one of the two hiking trails. Of course, the name was dedicated to the beautiful lady. The Aphrodite Trail leads through the landscape of the unspoiled Akama Peninsula, with breathtaking views of the sea.

Encounter with a mountain goat

I hiked here for hours and encountered very few tourists. I kept pulling out my smartphone to capture the magnificent bay views. I was briefly observed by a pretty black mountain goat who climbed onto the rocks at lightning speed. The skillful animal at least posed briefly for a photo.

Tip: Sun protection, a bottle of water, and sturdy shoes are absolutely essential in this partly rocky terrain. I came across two tourists in flip-flops—I have no idea how their feet survived the hike.

Have a look at my short clip.

Charming Latchi

After my extensive hike, I crave a cool drink. The pretty town of Latchi is just a few minutes drive away, right by the sea. The small marina is lined with cafés and restaurants. I was recommended Noma, which turned out to be a great tip. A wonderful terrace with a sea view, excellent service, and a lovely menu for vegetarians is the perfect mix for a late lunch. If I were to stay in the area for a longer period of time, Noma would become my favourite restaurant.

Just a few minutes' drive from Latchi is the village of Polis, with its pretty, car-free center with bars and restaurants. The next day, I stop off at Kivotos Art Café. This café, run by the German Tina, has a lovely terrace with a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere and serves a number of delicious dishes. The many books and pictures are an absolute eye-catcher—this is definitely my favourite place in Polis!

Blue Lagoon - Instagram is calling!

The highlight of this area is the Caribbean-style Blue Lagoon, which can be reached either by boat from Latchi (and also Pafos) or by off-road vehicle. It is almost impossible to get there in a hire car. If you have enough time, you can hike to the lagoon within three hours of the Aphrodite Trail. You can expect turquoise blue, crystal-clear water - perfect for snorkeling and swimming. The surrounding limestone cliffs provide an incredible backdrop and are considered one of the most photogenic places in Cyprus. Instagram is calling!

Important: The area is undecided, so it's best to bring provisions, sun protection, and beach accessories with you. Pay attention to the strict code of behaviour to protect the magnificent nature.

Off to Paphos

After a far too short two days, I make my way to the hotel in Paphos in just over an hour. Paphos is a place with a perfect mix of history and modern lifestyle. Hotels, shops, and restaurants line the chic, kilometre-long waterfront promenade. It is now early November, still pleasantly warm and busy. The beaches are narrow, and there are steps everywhere for swimmers to get into the water early in the morning. 

I stroll up to the 'Castle,' although the term 'castle 'needs to be more accurate for this historic building. It was built in the 13th century. An earthquake destroyed its two towers at the end of the 15th century. Under Ottoman rule, the castle was restored in the 18th century and then served as a prison and mosque, among other things, before the English used it as a salt warehouse. Today, the castle is protected and popular with tourists as a viewpoint. For EUR 2.30 admission (as of November 2024), you can take great photos from the upper viewing platform; otherwise, there is not much to see. The castle is impressively illuminated in the evening and makes a beautiful photo motif.

Tip: The selection of international restaurants with terraces and sea views is fantastic. My tip for a coffee and/or snack is Caffé Nero, whose terrace on the second floor offers a chilled atmosphere with a fantastic sea view. This English coffee shop chain boasts the 'Best Coffee this Side of Milan' - and yes, the brown wake-up drink tastes delicious here. 

UNESCO World Heritage Site

Directly opposite the castle is the entrance to the Archaeological Park of Kato Pafos, one of Cyprus's most important archaeological sites and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1980. The extensive, fenced-in area by the sea includes monuments dating from the 4th century BC to the Middle Ages. Most of the remains date back to Roman times. I spent three hours here and was transported back to ancient times.

The highlight is definitely the House of Dionysus, the Greek god of wine and madness (what a combination...).The amazingly well-preserved mosaic floors with scenes from Greek mythology are impressive.

From this point of interest, it is only a short walk to the lighthouse, which can be seen from afar, the Asklepieion (a kind of sanatorium and sanatorium), the Odeon (an amphitheatre from Roman times where concerts are occasionally held), and the Agora, a festival and meeting place. You will find wonderful photo opportunities with the lighthouse in the background here. Cyprus reflects on a very eventful and impressive past, which can be recreated well in this park

The Achaeological Park is open daily from 16 April to 15 September from 8.30 am to 7.30 pm and closes at 5 pm in autumn and winter. The entrance fee is EUR 4.50 per person. Opening times and admission prices are subject to change without prior notice. Visitors are therefore advised to enquire in advance.

Shopping and culinary delights in the old town of Paphos

Of course, visiting the old town of Paphos (Ktima) is a must. From the hotel zone, it is 2 km to the upper city, and a taxi or bus is recommended due to the busy, rather steep main street. The best place to start your tour is the pretty, neoclassical town hall on 28 October Square. Not far from there is Kennedy Square, one of the locals' favourite places with street cafés and restaurants.

From there, I head straight into the car-free old town with a sea view. After a few minutes, I end up on the main street in the Greko jewellery shop and meet the owner Chris. 'My real name is Christophorus, like the patron saint of travellers,' says the friendly man as I look at the bracelets and rings. I immediately added two more to my collection, and Chris gave me a few tips on the best coffee shops in the old town.

Before a caffeine boost, I look at the alleyways with their numerous boutiques and restaurants. In addition to the touristy stuff, a few galleries are selling high-quality items. The minaret of the mosque from the Turkish era is striking. Finally, I end up in the small Grafico Café with its pretty terrace, which is also popular with digital nomads. Like almost everywhere in Paphos, vegetarians (and vegans) get their money's worth here, too, and the coffee is excellent. The old town is full of such little oases - I would need days to try out the most beautiful ones.

Right to the top in the Troodos Mountains

A trip to Cyprus is incomplete without a trip to the Troodos Mountains. At 1,952 metres, Olympos is the highest peak, and from Paphos you can reach the idyllic mountain villages in just under an hour. The road into the mountains is well-maintained but also quite winding and leads through villages that are quite sleepy at this time of year. The views on the way are magnificent.

Despite the mild temperatures, some of the deciduous trees have already turned autumn colours - a nice contrast to the lush green of the pine forests. My first stop is the charming village of Pano Platres at an altitude of 1,200 metres. As one of the highest villages in Cyprus, it offers a cool refuge from the summer heat on the coast and is the ideal starting point for hikes in the picturesque landscape with its dense forests, clear streams, and waterfalls. In winter, snow even falls here, to the delight of the locals. At the beginning of November, some restaurants here have already closed, including the chic Skylight. I save my lunch for Omodos, which is only about 15 minutes away by car.

In Platres, you will find some rather unconventional architecture, a mixture of old and modern alpine buildings, including guesthouses and hotels. Chic alpine flats are being built on the outskirts of the village, and a holiday flat with a magnificent view is certainly not the worst idea. Right next door is the Platres Adventure Park, an adventure park with a zipline suitable for people aged 3 to 80 (according to their website). I could test my courage there, too, but the park was closed that day. Good excuse - right?

Omodos - the most beautiful mountain village

A little lower down than Platres is the pretty village of Omodos, which is still very busy at the beginning of November. This place teems with cafés and restaurants, including flashy ones (I like that!). I end up at Paradosi, which has an interesting collection of advertising boards and decorations. I enjoy a moussaka and a smoothie on the cosy terrace and watch the colourful hustle and bustle on the village square. Directly opposite is the monastery of the Holy Cross, founded in the 4th century and well worth visiting. With its works of art and relics, it is still a popular pilgrimage place for the locals.

I stroll through the many alleyways and admire the old brick buildings. Here and there, I glimpse a gallery or a boutique selling local handicrafts. To my delight, the many cats lolling in the sun in all sorts of places are unavoidable. Once again, I go into a real photo frenzy. One of these days, I will publish a book of cat photos from all over the world.

Wine, as far as the eye can see

With its pleasantly mild climate at around 800 metres, Omodos is ideal for growing wine. For centuries, the fertile soils have been a reasonable basis for Cyprus's best wines. Numerous wineries offer tastings in the area. I visit the most elegant winery, the Oenou Yi Winery, with a magnificent view over the vineyards. What a marvellous spot! Of course, I tried a few drops—but only after the journey.

A short detour to Limassol

It's a shame that the short week in Cyprus has gone by so quickly.

I didn't see anything of the eastern part of the island, which is supposed to be just as interesting. I really must revisit this wonderful island. On the way back to Larnaca airport, I took a detour to a suburb of Limassol, the second largest city in Cyprus. With its numerous skyscrapers (imposing in the evening), it has become the country's business centre and a veritable 'boomtown'.In the chic Plus Sea Restaurant, I enjoy the sea view for the last time, with the Limassol skyline in the background. What a wonderful end to a marvellous week in Cyprus!

Some facts about Cyprus

- The third largest island in the Mediterranean, with 9,521 square kilometres
- Located between three continents on the south-easternmost edge of Europe
- Approx. 1.2 million inhabitants
 The island as a whole is an independent republic. The north has been under Turkish occupation since 1974.The southern part of the island is predominantly inhabited by Greek Cypriots. 
- Nicosia (Lefkosia) is the largest city with approx. 350,000 inhabitants, followed by Limassol (Lemesos - approx. 262,000 inhabitants) and Larnaca (Larnaca - approx. 156,000 inhabitants)
- EU member since 2004
- Cyprus introduced the EURO as its official currency in 2008
- Cyprus' beaches are among the cleanest in Europe

How to get to Cyprus

The island has two international airports, Larnaca in the east (8 km from the city centre) and Paphos in the west (15 km from the city centre). Larnaca is the largest airport and is served by numerous international airlines, including Austrian Airlines, Lufthansa, and Swiss. 

Travelling in Cyprus

Left-hand traffic prevails in Cyprus. The usual car hire companies have stations at the airports. There are no trains, but there are four different bus companies:
- Shuttle buses: connect all towns with the Larnaca (Larnaka) and Pafos (Paphos) airports.
- Intercity buses: run daily and frequently between all major towns.
- Public buses: connect different city areas and run frequently during the day. In certain holiday areas, buses also run late into the evening during summer.
- Rural buses: connect almost all villages with the nearest town, but only operate on a limited basis.

Staying overnight in Cyprus

I spent two nights in the 5-star hotels Anassa (Neo Chorio) and Almyra and Annabelle (both in Paphos). My report will follow in the next few weeks. You can find a complete list of all accommodations on the site of Visit Cyprus. 

Culinary delights in Cyprus

An integral part of Cypriot cuisine are the so-called mezes, small portions of a wide variety of delicacies with various dips. Fresh fish and seafood are, of course, at the top of the menu—but don't worry—vegetarians and vegans will also get their money's worth in Cyprus. The many cheese specialties and, of course, sweet temptations such as baklava are delicious. You can also enjoy the local wines and strong, flavoured Cypriot coffee. Take a look here for more tips.

Weather in Cyprus

Cyprus has a Mediterranean climate with dry and hot summers (from mid-May to mid-October) and mild winters (from December to February). In the Troodos Mountains, it often snows before Christmas. Otherwise, Cyprus is spoilt by the sun. Even in December and January, there are still six to eight hours of sunshine daily. On the other hand, there is an average of 11.5 hours in the summer months!
July and August are the warmest months, with daytime temperatures of around 24 degrees C in the Troodos Mountains and up to 38 degrees C on the coast. January is the coldest month, with 3 degrees C in the mountains and 10 degrees C in the central plain. Even in November, the sea is still a pleasant 22 degrees C before it cools to 15 degrees C.

I really want to return to this diverse island with its magnificent landscapes and beaches, excellen infrastructure, and historic yet modern cities!

*My trip was supported by Thanos Hotels and Visit Cyprus. However, this has not influenced my reviews in any way.*

Did you like this article? Then you might also be interested in my report on the Greek island of Rhodes.