Update December 2023: In the meantime, the Gran Hotel Atlantis Bahía Real has been completely renovated and changed its name to "Secrets Bahía Real Resort & Spa".
On my way from the airport of Fuerteventura to Corralejo I already have this feeling of pure happiness. Instead of taking the new highway, I drive along the coast. After 20 minutes I can see the beloved dunes in the nature park – just take a deep breath! Fuerteventura calms me down. And it is just great to escape from the rainy German weather in late fall and to enjoy spring – in December!
But first ... Coffee!
Arrived at the stunning Gran Hotel Atlantis Bahía Real, I am sipping my usual espresso in the Mirador bar, enjoying the awesome view over the Atlantic Ocean and the small island of Lobos. This time, I will go on an excursion to this little, uninhabited island. What a great contrast to my stay at the best hotel of Fuerteventura!
Best Tour Guide!
Andreas Caliman is again my tour guide. I can hardly imagine a better one than this cool German, who has been living on Fuerteventura island for over 20 years. Andreas knows the island better than anyone else. „Let`s go at 9 am, so that we can have coffee in the harbor.“ With pleasure, Andreas. After our caffeine intake, we are off to Lobos, together with 10 other curious travelers. 15 minutes later we are in a completely different world. „For some people even Fuerteventura is too busy, so they love to come here,“ explains Andreas with a smile.
Lobos - a small and uninhabited Beauty
The little island of Lobos just measures 4.58 skm and is a protected area, thank God. Lobos is uninhabited – however, not really. I will get back to this later. The Montaña La Caldera is not to miss, a massive hulk with a height of 127 m. Lobos has been created between 15,000 and 30,000 years ago and was once connected with Fuerteventura. The name derives from a monk seal which lived here until it was extinct in the 15th century. However, even without these animals, there is so much to see on Lobos.
The friendly guys on the ferry (three daily connections in winter) help the visitors to get off the shaky boat. We are in a completely different world. A scenery like in a fantasy movie, no signs of civilization apart from the visitor center. A path with lava stones shows the hiking directions. „First I will show you the Playa de la Concha,“ says Andreas. Minutes later we are on a beautiful sandy beach with no people. The sky is somehow covered, it is pleasantly mild. On hot days, sun lotion and headgear are indispensable since there are hardly any trees or shady places on Lobos island. I cannot get enough of the volcanic rocks. Green scrubs sprout everywhere, here and there also beautiful flowers. No wonder, a few weeks ago it has rained heavily for a short while. What a great contrast to all those dark lava rocks!
Ain`t no Mountain high enough...
How about a little alpine challenge? We want to climb up the mountain. Oh well, one of my goals for 2019 are more outdoor activities, so here we go. After 15 minutes we have arrived on top of the mountain. The reward is an unparallel view over Lobos, Fuerteventura and Lanzarote. I can see the Gran Hotel Atlantis Bahía Real from a brand new perspective and enjoy my picknick with Andreas. A raven is watching how I am moving back and forth on a rock in order to make myself (and my butt) comfortable. Otherwise, I could spend hours here. However, there is so much more to see on Lobos island – for example, those little volcanoes called „hornitos“ (little ovens). Andreas explains the flora of Lobos island. I am again fascinated by those many lichens. „They give you an idea about the climate. Lichens belong to alga living in symbiosis with mushrooms. Harmful substances disturb their balance.“ A great proof for the excellent climate of the Canary Islands where many lichens grow. Well, it is even presumed to be the best climate in the world!
Is this Place real?
We hike through an almost surreal landscape with bizarre rocks all over the place. Next goal: the old lighthouse on the Northern peak of the Lobos, just opposite the island of Lanzarote. A nice way leads up to the slightly run-down building with the little monument of Josefina Pla. Being the daughter of the lighthouse keeper, this lady was born in the lighthouse and became a famous poet who later emigrated to Paraguay. A lighthouse as birthplace – doesn`t that sound cool?
Birds and lots of Salt
We continue our hike along green euphorbia, heading to a little salt lagoon and the „village“. Remainders of salines and salt meadows with plants that love salt. „Lobos is breathing salt,“ says Andreas. Then he draws my attention to a few birds (little egrets and stilts among others). „Lobos is a paradise for birdwatchers,“ he explains. I always have to turn back just to watch this wonderful and strange landscape. Here and there, tourists are coming by. Other than that, almost no traces of civilization – so great!
Snacks in the "Village" - and an incredible Lagoon
We have made it to „El Puertito“ (small harbor), the so-called village. As a matter of fact, no one is really living on Lobos. Most people come here over the day, including the owners of the only, very simple „restaurant“ on the island of Lobos. The food selection is not that big, to say the least. „You can only get paella or fish that is as fresh as fish can be,“ says Andreas. El Puertito is one of the remaining typical old Canary fishing villages. White little cabins in narrow alleys. We sit down on a little wall and look over a lagoon. The sun is coming through and all over sudden the sea is turquoise, almost Caribbean style. Again, I could sit here for hours and just watch this incredible natural scenery. „In summer, many locals come here for swimming,“ says Andreas. How much would I love to jump into the lagoon but we have booked the ferry for 4 pm.
Nature-boy Andreas is not concerned about our timing and takes a quick swim in the Atlantic Ocean. I am just thinking about how to dry my clothes. Maybe Germans think too much? Anyways, I decide not to swim but have a quick walk around the little bay to take more photos.
And now ... Time to spa!
Then it`s time to leave the island. We could have taken the last ferry at 5 pm but … a very special massage is waiting for me at the Gran Hotel Atlantis Bahía Real. So – back to civilization. Thanks so much, Andreas. The excursion with you has been fantastic, like the one last year.
At the Gran Hotel Atlantis Bahía Real, Veronica is already waiting for me to give me a massage called „Seductive Man“. This treatment just for men is supposed to increase the male power and to get you in balance. Sounds great! „All ingredients are natural, no chemical stuff,“ assures Veronica. Perfect after an awesome day spent in untouched nature. I enjoy the mix of patchouli, nutmeg, sandalwood, cardamom and vetiver. I am pretty sure this will increase my potency. However, Superman has to relax now after such a fantastic day full of wonderful experiences. Muchas gracias!
Good to know
Ferry from Fuerteventura to Lobos: 15 EUR per person (roundtrip) – more info here.
TOP: the local Government has just decided to only allow 200 visitors per day to Lobos island. Great in order to protect and maintain this little paradise.
The „Seductive Man“ massage lasts one hour and costs 115 EUR. Reservations at the award-winning Spa Bahía Vital at the Gran Hotel Atlantis Bahía Real.